I’m not a huge connoisseur of the buffalo wing and can’t say much of the phenomenon that catapulted that dish onto every sports bar menu in the country. But I do enjoy a well-prepared piece of chicken every now and again.

By far my favorite chicken wing preparation is what can be found at Momofuku in New York. But the crunchy version found at San Tung in the Inner Sunset is not too shabby at all, especially if you slather the wings in hot sauce and rice wine vinegar. Tsingtao—that most versatile of beers—washes those wings down remarkably well.