(Photography by Sarah Chorey)

First Taste: Cow Marlowe brings class and humor to SF's party 'hood

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One of our favorite restaurants has a new location, just in time for the holidays.

Seekers of the best burgers in San Francisco are already regulars at Marlowe, the classy-slash-approachable SoMa mainstay from restaurateur-about-town Anna Weinberg and chef Jennifer Puccio. Now, the team is answering our secret prayers with a more weekend-friendly sophomore outpost in Cow Hollow. Cheekily dubbed Cow Marlowe, the restaurant takes over the old location of Eastside West, in a part of town typically packed with rowdy 20-somethings, and feels poised to change the identity of the neighborhood.


Warm hues and leather banquettes make Cow Marlowe a low-key-sexy spot for date night.(Sarah Chorey)

With yet another powerfully elegant design from Ken Fulk's team, the interior here, by senior designer Tiffany Krame, plays on contrasts: dark and light, bold and soft, and always with a bit of humor. You'll find plush leather booths that invite you to sink in and martini up; geometric white tiled walls; countertops made of sodalite, a rare blue stone; and some choice bovine art. All in all, it's a place we can easily relax into for a leisurely night of wining and dining.

Puccio and pastry chef Emily Luchetti have devised a slight variation on the restaurant's well-loved menu, with a mashup of the old favorites (deviled eggs, Brussels sprout chips, and of course that famous burger) alongside a smattering of new bites that feel winter-ready—think poutine with braised beef short ribs, cracklings, aioli, and parmesan cheese; and grilled furikake green beans with smoked egg yolk, caviar, and truffle aioli. Rich? Hell yes.

Perhaps the biggest change at Marlowe 2.0 is the super-focus on cocktails. Mike Anders, of both Marianne's and Leo's Oyster Bar, has pulled out all his tricks for three sections of drinks: Marlowe classics, Cow Marlowe house cocktails, and Marina Girls & Boys, featuring the brilliantly named Lululemon Drop and a Brad & Chad.

We think this neighborhood could definitely go for a drink or two.

(Courtesy of Cow Marlowe)

A charred octopus and grilled squid salad.

// Cow Marlowe, 3154 Fillmore St. (Cow Hollow), marlowesf.com

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