We hold these truths to be self-evident: late-night dining in San Francisco is pretty pathetic. Sure, there are a fewnotableexceptions, but for the most part this fun-loving town does not shine its brightest at two in the morning. But one little outfit is taking a bold step in the right direction: Crêperie Saint Germain is open until 3:30 a.m. on both Friday and Saturday nights (they also serve lunch daily). This crêpe shed on wheels, permanently parked in one location (Howard between First and Second streets) is poised to go to war against the venerable midnight slice. Given that you can order sweet or savory crêpes with myriad fillings (some 35+ options in all), that they are made quickly and that the most expensive among them tops out at $7.95, we think soggy pizza looks pretty lame in comparison.

There are still kinks to be worked out—curiously, the Mediterranean crêpe—a mixture of feta, olives, spinach and green onions—also includes avocado as a surprise ingredient, and the black olives come straight from a can. But the batter for the savory crêpes, made from buckwheat flour, is toothsome and nutty and the finished product emerges with crispy edges. And, of course, we all know the curative powers of a crêpe thickly spread with nutella, no matter what time of day the cure is employed.