(Photography by Sarah Chorey)

First Taste: Cow Marlowe brings class and humor to SF's party 'hood


One of our favorite restaurants has a new location, just in time for the holidays.

Seekers of the best burgers in San Francisco are already regulars at Marlowe, the classy-slash-approachable SoMa mainstay from restaurateur-about-town Anna Weinberg and chef Jennifer Puccio. Now, the team is answering our secret prayers with a more weekend-friendly sophomore outpost in Cow Hollow. Cheekily dubbed Cow Marlowe, the restaurant takes over the old location of Eastside West, in a part of town typically packed with rowdy 20-somethings, and feels poised to change the identity of the neighborhood.

Warm hues and leather banquettes make Cow Marlowe a low-key-sexy spot for date night.(Sarah Chorey)

With yet another powerfully elegant design from Ken Fulk's team, the interior here, by senior designer Tiffany Krame, plays on contrasts: dark and light, bold and soft, and always with a bit of humor. You'll find plush leather booths that invite you to sink in and martini up; geometric white tiled walls; countertops made of sodalite, a rare blue stone; and some choice bovine art. All in all, it's a place we can easily relax into for a leisurely night of wining and dining.

Puccio and pastry chef Emily Luchetti have devised a slight variation on the restaurant's well-loved menu, with a mashup of the old favorites (deviled eggs, Brussels sprout chips, and of course that famous burger) alongside a smattering of new bites that feel winter-ready—think poutine with braised beef short ribs, cracklings, aioli, and parmesan cheese; and grilled furikake green beans with smoked egg yolk, caviar, and truffle aioli. Rich? Hell yes.

Perhaps the biggest change at Marlowe 2.0 is the super-focus on cocktails. Mike Anders, of both Marianne's and Leo's Oyster Bar, has pulled out all his tricks for three sections of drinks: Marlowe classics, Cow Marlowe house cocktails, and Marina Girls & Boys, featuring the brilliantly named Lululemon Drop and a Brad & Chad.

We think this neighborhood could definitely go for a drink or two.

(Sarah Chorey)

One of our favorite dishes, the petrale sole is stuffed with diver scallops, bay shrimp, celery root, and spinach, seasoned with smoked paprika and topped with crisp sunchoke chips.

// Cow Marlowe, 3154 Fillmore St. (Cow Hollow), marlowesf.com

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