One thing remains the same at the restaurant at The Chapel: A sunny patio primed for day drinking. (Photography by Sarah Chorey)

First Taste: At the Chapel's new Curio, it's mortuary-chic inside + life-giving frosé on the patio

24 July 2018

San Francisco music lovers may already have the jump on this new spot: Serving concertgoers at The Chapel, as well as Missionites looking for a drink on a patio, Curio has quietly slipped into the spot that was once home to The Vestry.

And the change is welcome: The new concept from Chapel owner Jack Knowles is intended to spark the imagination.

A new restaurant name has taken over the marquee at The Chapel.

▲

But happily, there's still a patio that opens onto Valencia Street.

▲

The courtyard is a pleasant spot for after-work drinks or, better yet, leisurely weekend brunch.

▲

Dark, rock-and-roll vibes still dominate at Curio's two bars.

▲

Peculiar yet captivating, the revamped interior by Michael Brennen hinges upon themes of life and time.
▲

From left: The Mermaid (vodka, grapefruit, raspberry, mint, lime, seltzer, and peach aperitif), and the Unicorn (vodka, pisco, strawberry, szechuan, lemon, amaro, Benedictine, rainbow bitters, and egg whites).

▲

Look for the restaurant's daily special, such as this fresh heap of tuna tartare.

▲

We never say no to a plate of burrata. Curio's is fried—we repeat, fried. A cluster of smoked tomatoes and fresh wild arugula help balance out the salty goodness.

▲

Something for the table? Go for a platter of cauliflower, eggplant, and white corn dips, served with crispy flatbread and sheets of lavash crackers.

▲

Shhh...You'll want to keep these hush puppies, studded with small chunks of wild Gulf shrimp and served with sweet chili butter, to yourself.

▲

Find a few choice salads under the Healthy-ish section of Curio's menu, such as this baby kale number topped with yellow wax beans and shavings of Brussels sprouts.

▲

Entrees include riffs on comfort favorites such as smoked beer can chicken, a sirloin strip, and lightly battered fish-and-chips (pictured).

▲

Big night out? Be prepared and order the a fried chicken sandwich. This crispy morsel comes with a pickled relish slaw of green tomatoes, cabbage, and onions, and is topped with a slather of sweet pepper jelly.

▲

With a design refresh care of Michael Brennan (Jardinière, Trademark & Copyright, Harry's), the interior is intended to be playful and mysterious, with a rather quirky nod to the location's past life as a mortuary. Vintage Italian chandeliers, neon signs tucked away in dark corners, golden skulls, grandfather clocks, and wood from the old mortuary come together for a quasi-edgy, morose vibe that conjures thoughts on life and time.

While you're pondering your mortality, you'll want a drink, and the seasonal cocktails here—designed by mixologist Darren Crawford (Bourbon & Branch)—pick up on the theme, named after such mythical creatures as the Phoenix and Chupacabra.

Chef Mario Tolentino (from the Food Network's 2010 season of Chopped) leads the kitchen in a menu of share plates and mains that blend American flavor with a Californian farm-to-table ethos. Dig into a shellfish tower of oysters, shrimp, lobster, and clams, or play it safe with the Holy Grail burger topped with cremini mushrooms, tomato jam, fried onions, and raclette cheese. Southern-inspired classics—think buttermilk biscuit Benedict and shrimp and grits—rule at brunch.

If dark-and-creepy's not your jam, take a seat on the spacious, sunny patio and order up a frosty glass of frosé.

// Curio,775 Valencia Street, curiobarsf.com

Related Articles