More Pizza Now: Flour + Water Is Almost Open


If there's any food that incites spirited debate amongst food-lovers, it's pizza. Thin-crust, deep dish, New York v. SF, Di Fara v. Franny's, Pizzeria Delfina v. Pizzaiolo—the throw-down runs coast to coast and knows no limits. And though we'd be inclined to say that San Francisco is fast approaching pizza saturation, we'll admit to being very curious, and very enthusiastic, about Flour + Water, the Mission's latest addition.

I stopped by today to chat with chef Tom McNaughton and Pizzaiolo Jon Darsky—and let me interject here, on a purely superficial note, that this duo is supremely cute. Though the restaurant is still a late-stage construction zone, the wood-oven (which came from Mugnaini in Watsonville) was fired up, and Tom was messing around with several dishes (including adorable, tiny ricotta-and-sweet pea tortellini). McNaughton's prior experience includes stints at Gary Danko, Quince and a "pasta laboratory" in Bologna, Italy. He is the epitome of earnest, and talked at great length about the housemade charcuterie, the hand-rolled pastas and the doughs they'll be making from scratch daily (pizza dough, of course, but also focaccia dough, which will be baked off five times during service so there will always be fresh bread).

Darsky attended law school in New York, then moved to San Francisco when his fiancé landed a job at YouTube. He decided to quit law, and applied for a job working with Charlie Hallowell at Pizzaiolo in Oakland, where he worked for six months before starting at Pizzeria Delfina. The restaurant's interior is being designed by Sean Quigley of Paxton Gate and despite the chaos, the welders, the plumbers, you can tell this is going to be a really lovely little spot. Sometimes you just get a feeling that a restaurant has nailed it—perfect location, great team, ideal concept (nothing on the menu will cost more than $20). I predict Flour + Water will be a raging success—they open for dinner on May 15. Stop in to wish them well. 2401 Harrison St.,

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