Three Expert Chefs, 7 Delivery Pizzas, and Two Winners
Photos by Nicholas Brawley
It’s raining, hovering in the 50s and it’s … June? This calls for therapy—of the delivery-pizza kind. A cardboard box filled with a steamy, cheesy, salty, heart-clogging-yet-lifting cure for everything that ails you. But who to call?
Glad you asked. Yesterday at 7x7’s offices, we brought in seven of some of the most popular delivered pizzas based in different neighborhoods around town.
For the record, we tried for 10, but Villa Romana—which my very delivery-pizza-educated friend thinks is the best secret in SF—Pizza Orgasmica and Victor’s weren’t able to deliver at the last minute. Yes, there are plenty more options out there, such as Amici’s, Serrano’s and Seniore’s (we heard rumor that Nate Appleman used to order from here) and more, but in the name of sanity, we had to draw the line somewhere.
To make this all official, we called in three of the city’s top pizza chefs to help judge a blind taste test. Below are the shocking results. (Disclaimer: At no point was anyone drunk when they did the tasting, which, when determining the deliciousness of a delivered pizza, isn’t necessarily a good thing.) Our order: A large cheese. The judging categories: Crust, Sauce, Cheese, Slice Overall.
The esteemed judges:
Chef Thomas McNaughton, Flour + Water
Go-to delivery pizza: The restaurant’s kitchen because he lives above it
Chef Brandon Wells, Pizzeria Delfina
Go-to delivery pizza: Avellino (“My wife is the one who orders pepperoni from here. You think I ever want more pizza?”)
Chef Liza Shaw, formerly of A16
Go-to delivery pizza: Victor’s (“I liked the Zorba.”)
Senior editor Sara Deseran, 7x7 (that would be me)
Go-to delivery pizza: Marcello’s
THE RESULTS:
1st place: TIE! Paxti’s and Za Gourmet
Paxti’s Chicago Pizza (Hayes Valley, Marina, Noe Valley)
We ordered a thin-crust from the Hayes Valley location of this deep-dish mainstay. With its “dense, cornmeal crust,” the judges felt this pie stood out from all the others, which made it slightly unfair. But the “sweet sauce” and “overall flavor” and balance got it relatively high marks.
Za (Russian Hill)
Meanwhile, biting into a slice of Za, one judge thought that this pizza had “too much garlic and oregano,” while another one liked it for these very reasons. Its thin, chewy, irregular crust and zippy sauce were appealing to most. It also had a touch of cornmeal, which led the judges to believe, considering Paxti’s tie, that maybe cornmeal is the shhhh … secret ingredient to success!
2nd Place: Marcello’s (Castro)
“Nice acid in the sauce, nice ratio of sauce and cheese too.” Three judges deemed it the best sauce of all the pizzas, but the worst crust—“dense and uniform.”
3rd Place: North Beach Pizza (North Beach, Haight)
“Well-seasoned,” said one judge. “It definitely has the most salt,” agreed another. “It’s light, all really uniform,” one noted, which in the eyes of a pizza chef might be a flaw but in the eyes of a different beholder could be a good thing.
4th Place: Escape from NY (Fi-Di, Haight, Castro, Russian Hill, Mission, SoMa)
Ordered from the Haight location, this pizza was deemed the “best looking” of the bunch—from afar at least. While one judge who didn’t grow up on the East Coast thought this was a salty, dry disaster, another chimed in that it was his favorite because, “It reminds me of South Jersey where I grew up,” proving that you can’t separate the pizza from the nostalgia.
5th Place: Nizario’s (Inner Richmond, Castro, North Beach)
With darker brown speckles on the cheese, this pizza was deemed to be more processed, perhaps with a drier cheese. “Poofy, needs salt,” said one judge. “Like Pizza Hut!” said another. Another wondered, “Is this the kind of pizza made on a conveyor belt?”
6th Place: Cybelle’s (Castro)
This pizza, which comes from the Castro location—one of a few independently-owned Cybelle’s franchises town—had a very “strange blend of cheese.” “Could it possibly have Cheddar on it?” one judge wondered after looking at the streaks of orange. Another rated this as the worst crust out of all seven, while one gave it the lowest ranking for three out of the four categories.
I know I'll probably be lambasted for saying Extreme Pizza...but there is caveat. Order individual slices; They are large, have better crust, cheese and toppings, and are cooked better. Of course...I'm also partial to homemade pizzas...Like this Greek pizza - http://tiny.cc/u0kxn
By on July 06, 2011
I always really like Nizario's, but there aren't that many great choices for delivery in Castro. Never liked Escape from NY or Cybelle's, and only ever got Marcello's as take out. But now I gotta get myself to Paxti's!
By on July 02, 2011
I loved the article, cute and not to be taken too seriously. Although, I'm always open to new suggestions,I figure ultomately, I can be the final judge. As far as non-delivery: my whole-hearted vote goes to Zero Zero on Folsom. I would give my first born for this pizza. Order "the Castro" and be prepared for a stomach orgasim. Happy eating everyone!
By on June 30, 2011
useless article. i'm still trying to figure out what that review of nizario's means. dark brown spots? did they look at the picture of the "winner." obviously they have never been to nizario's, or they would realize how foolish their impressions of processed and conveyor belt are.
i won't go into the others, to save myself time.
this is the problem with the internet, too much blathering. all i learned from this article is that 7x7 has employees who think any useless thing that comes to their minds is worth the space.
By on June 30, 2011
glad there was at least a mention of Victor's Pizza
By on June 29, 2011
PIZZELLE in North Beach is the best pizza in the city, at least when you're there. I haven't had their delivery. But they are way better than Nizario's (also in NB), and though I was long a Pizza Orgasmica fan, I've switched teams to PIZZELLE. They're number one in my book!
By on June 29, 2011
All of the whiners probably eat bean sprouts and ferns on their pizzas and probably never folded a real slice in their lives. I go with the judge chefs. These are real Italian pizzas. My fav? Still North Beach... and when you order the Coit special, you're in pizza heaven. You know a real pizza parlour by the smell, not the vegetables. We want-a- MEEAT!
By on June 29, 2011
Wow. Calm down Erika Erik Seidenglanz. It's only pizza. This article doesn't suck nearly as much as your foul language, grammar, and spelling. Translation, please? And if you're so offended by 7x7, do the rest of us a favor, and feel free to unsubscribe any time. Good grief.
By on June 29, 2011
agree with most here - those pizza's are disgusting, pseudo-gourmet alternatives to.... Dominos. You might as well have added Dominos and Round Table to the mix - they would be indistinguishable.
Couldn't wait for Victors or just didnt want to include them? Huh? I've never ordered from there and didn't get the pizza in about 30 minutes. I don't claim it to be the best delivery, but it certainly always looks more appealing to all of those shown here.
By on June 29, 2011
I ordered a pizza from Patxis when they first opened... (live across the street) but was disappointed because they put any additional pizza ingredients UNDER the cheese and thus they do not get cooked right and were not pre-sauteed. Any place that hides the ingredients UNDER the cheese is BAD. IMO
By on June 29, 2011
Say What?
North Beach and Cybelle's make the list, but not Pasquale's and Villa Romana ?
By on June 29, 2011
"Let's see, when it comes to pizza, which opinions should one trust? Those of three of the best pizza chefs in the country? Or those of DTM and Erika?"
By Karen (not verified) on June 28, 2011
^Haha, Karen if those pizza chefs (actually a pretty good panel) chose the pizzas nominated, God strike me down now by lightning.
You (Karen) obviously have no idea what you are talking about.
And Laura Mason, I appreciate your comments in adding to the discourse, much more than the author did.
I am only commenting because 7x7 has some good articles, food events(!) and I think aspires to a higher level. Any article that includes the likes of Escape from NY, Nizarios and Norh Beach Pizza as the "Best" is just poorly researched.
By on June 29, 2011
Sorry, but Paxti's does not have a thin crust pizza. They have a thick crust, not to be confused with deep dish. I have yet to find a true thin crust pizza out here.
"Those of three of the best pizza chefs in the country?" According to whom? Sorry, but pizza out here really stinks. Not sure how you can screw up such basic ingredients, but SF and surrounding areas do a bang up job.
By on June 29, 2011
If the photos are the best pizzas I think I will be a frozen. They all look pretty disgusting. Why can't Americans make a true pizza, not the crap we get at places where people don't know what they are doing.
By on June 29, 2011
It's good you didn't pick Amici's which draws it's most advent support from The SF Giants and Ralph Barbieri who talks at length about their strong community ties yet if you live on the south side of Geary,say across from Yoshi's Jazz Club or anywhere near public housing even if it is a house or condo they refuse to deliver to you when a large portion of SF Giants resemble the occupants of the same area Amici's avoids like the 8 mile wall in Detroit MI !
By on June 29, 2011
Damn, people take their pizza seriously with regards to some of the nasty comments. It was a fun article, fun in that it had artisinal pizza authorities rank basically low-tier pizza.
Arinell's, although they don't deliver, is my favorite non-frufru street-pizza. Favorite deliverables? Why bother when I live 3 houses away from Pizetta.
By on June 29, 2011
Lanesplitter is best delivery in Oakland. There is no delivery that comes close to that in SF.
By on June 29, 2011
Honey...we should try Paxti! :)
I'm really REALLY craving cheese pizza now!
By on June 29, 2011
Cheese pizza is stupid.
By on June 29, 2011
What about Mozzarella di Bufala at West Portal? Their pizza is delicious, specially the corn meal crust pan pizza!
By on June 29, 2011
Huge Victors fan so majorly disappointed that their pie didn't get included.
By on June 29, 2011
I'd love to see this taste test done in Oakland... what's the best pizza delivery near Lake Merritt/Grand Lake?
By on June 29, 2011
This reminds me of the "Pizza Smackdown" several friends and I conducted a couple of years ago between Paxti's and Little Star. (Paxti's won that one, too, and is my favorite pizza in the city!) Thanks for sharing your results!
By on June 29, 2011
Which judge was from South Jersey? What town?
By on June 29, 2011
too much cheese on all of those pizzas. How can one taste anything but that cheap plastic grated mozza (that is supposed to pass for real mozza cheese)? Is there a dairy subsidy that I'm not aware of that is being paid to pizza makers and cheese makers?
By on June 28, 2011
Once again, another blog showing how out of touch and lame 7x7 makes San Francisco seem.
By on June 28, 2011
Congrats Marcellos! I lived in the Castro for years and I ate that pizza all the time. It sustained me. Maybe it reminded me of NY? Or maybe it was just Lucri's smile.
By on June 28, 2011
Amicis and Extreme would have been in the top 3
By on June 28, 2011
Hey Erika Erik? Please learn proper grammar and syntax before commenting on a public forum. You'll feel better, I'll feel better...everybody wins!
Thanks ever so.
Also, Marcello's pizza delivery is the go-to in my house, but you better believe I'm going to rally for Paxti's thin crust next time. Thanks, you guys.
By on June 28, 2011
The "shhhhh secret" that you mention above (cornmeal) is a cheat for pizza places with sub-par ovens to create/fake appropriate crust.
Typically pizza ovens need to be extremely hot to cook pizzas properly. Due to SF regulations, only restaurants that have wood-fired ovens can do this right (pizzetta 211 and I think Zero Zero are two that immediately come to mind in SF).
So when a chef or a pizza place uses cornmeal on the bottom of pies, they can fake the proper "crisp" factor out of the crust and not overcook the pizza (not to mention how liberal use of cornmeal can alter the taste of the pies).
By on June 28, 2011
Pizza DELIVERY options are for the most part horrible in SF. Good stuff....but it does seem like they all kinda sucked.
By on June 28, 2011
Let's see, when it comes to pizza, which opinions should one trust? Those of three of the best pizza chefs in the country? Or those of DTM and Erika?
By on June 28, 2011
erika erik,
Arinell and Golden do NOT deliver. We would have loved to have Serrano's but they would not deliver to our office because it is out of their delivery range.
By on June 28, 2011
did you forget arnelles, this article SUCKS. and i have lived in sf 11 years , your piazza article hold no water
you cant do a review with 7 pizzas in a city with 100's
or golden boy
or any of the real pizza makers
i know you talk about serraons but you didnt eat it
fucking lame article
7X7 youve dont nothing once again a sub par magazine as ussaly time to delete
By on June 28, 2011
DTM,
What's your favorite delivery pizza?
By on June 28, 2011
Your 7 pizza nominations are laughable. Few of these shops are only edible after a 6 pack or near starvation.
This almost as bad as when you had Chipotle in the burrito nominations.....DTM
By on June 28, 2011
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