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Flour + Water: You Want Pizza, You Get Pizza

Yesterday I stopped by the Mission's latest addition, Flour + Water, to see how the team is doing after being open for a week. The answers, it seems, are 1) they're hot (small kitchen plus heat wave=sauna) 2) overworked and 3) unfailingly kind and cheerful, taking time to squire me around the kitchen. To say that they have been busy since they started serving dinner last Friday would be a gross understatement—they have been absolutely crazy jammed, quoting hour-plus waits at 7 p.m. and turning away people who arrive too late in the evening. Those who read my earlier post may remember that they are serving not only pizza, but also handmade pasta and house-cured charcuterie. But it is pizza, cooked by former baseball talent scout-turned law student-turned pizzaiolo Jon Darsky, that people are ordering above all else. Last Saturday, when the restuarant did 180 covers, 120 of those people ordered a pie. Even with the super-sonic Mugnaini oven, which cooks four pizzas at a time in just two minutes, that's a lot of dough.

But co-owner David Steele is wisely taking it all in stride. "We think the pasta is out of this world," he said to me, "but if what the neighborhood wants is pizza, that's what we'll give them." Hear that, Darsky? You've got your work cut out for you.