The luxury oceanfront Four Seasons Resort Hualalai, situated along a half-mile slice of gorgeous coastline on the northwest Kona Coast, is the kind of place that instantly lowers your blood pressure, fuels your connection to nature, feeds your soul (and stomach), and pampers you like nobody’s business.
In other words, Four Seasons Resort Hualalai knows how to paradise.
Whether Hawaii is like your second home or you’ve yet to make a maiden voyage to the 50th state, checking into this magical Big Island property is an experience sure to stay with you long after the chocolate-covered macadamia nuts are (sadly) no more than a sweet memory.
King's Pond at Four Seasons Resort Hualalai(Courtesy of Four Seasons Resort Hualalai)
Currently celebrating its 30th anniversary, the hotel is no stranger to collecting accolades—and loyal guests who return year after year. Most recently, the 249-room property was named the #1 Hotel and Resort in the U.S. for the second consecutive year by U.S. News & World Report.
Having just checked in for a three-day stay, I understand why it garners so much love: everything revolves around providing visitors with their best experience. For some that means snorkeling, a game of pickleball, and a round of golf—all before lunch. For others (e.g. moi), the daily itinerary is all about pool-hopping, beach-reading, and spa-going. Everyone, however, revels in the majestic surroundings, fabulous dining options, and idyllic accommodations.
There’s really no reason to ever leave the grounds, and I didn’t. Here’s why…
Food, Glorious Food
Every appetizer, entrée, poolside lunch, and lychee cocktail I consumed was on point. My biggest challenges were choosing which restaurant to try, deciding what to order, and knowing when enough homemade coconut sorbet is actually enough. (What? It was so friggin’ good.)
Miller & Lux(Courtesy of Four Seasons Resort Hualalai)
Turns out, my first and last meals are the ones my taste buds will never get over. As soon as I arrive—the resort is only a 20-minute drive from the airport in Kona— I make a beeline to ‘Ulu for lunch. Casual yet chic, the open-air beachfront restaurant focuses on farm- and ocean-to-table experiences with its Pan-Asian-meets-Hawaiian cuisine. My primo patio seat is just as yummy as the king crab and mochi noodles with sweet ebi butter and bok choy… and the aforementioned sorbet.
The final night: al fresco dinner at SF chef Tyler Florence’s Miller and Lux. Unsurprisingly, everything was mind-blowingly scrumptious—from the warm popover and tableside caesar salad to the French Dover sole (holy smokes!) and signature bananas foster. Along with a magnificent hillside view, the evening was made extra special thanks to the charming chef himself. Mr. Florence happened to be in town and happily chatted up this diner about all things M+L, The Great Food Truck Race, and, naturally, Bay Area goings-on.
My one food regret? Not making it to Noio, the resort's 12-seat omakase restaurant serving decadent culinary rides starring freshly caught island fish and Japanese ingredients.
Pools, Ocean Views + a Famous Eagle Ray
The deep-blue Pacific is stunning and dramatic, full stop, but the island’s volcanic landscape means lots of black lava rock, choppy water, and rocky bottoms. There are protected swimming areas. However, this resort is all about the pools—all eight of them. Each has a distinct personality with luxe poolside amenities like chilled towels and complimentary ice-pops delivered straight to your chaise.
Beach Tree Pool(Courtesy of Four Seasons Resort Hualalai)
I skip the kids-only and family-friendly watering holes, spending much of my cabana time at the Beach Tree “quiet” Pool instead, where the agenda is strictly magazine page-turning, smoothie-sipping, and SPF-application,
I also make regular visits to the King’s Pond and Infinity Pool, super convenient as my lovely low-rise bungalow—tastefully decorated in mid-century Hawaiian style like all the rooms and suites—is perched directly above them. The Pond’s 1.8-million-gallon swimmable lava rock “aquarium” is filled with more than 1,000 tropical fish and marine life—snorkel heaven, if you will.
Also located here is the Kumu Kai Marine Center, where marine naturalists lead daily feedings, educate guests about the resort’s residents and ocean preservation, and offer “touch-tank” experiences. Oh, what fun it was to feed the parrotfish, yellow tang, pearl wrasse, and striped belly pufferfish—and meet the pond’s most famous resident Kainalu, a rescued spotted eagle ray who recently entered his 30s.
A Little Pampering + a Touch of Culture
In between pool time, beach walking, and acquiring tasty iced coffee and spicy Hawaiian snacks at the Hualalai Trading Company, I fit in a visit to the spa. (How could I not?)
A treatment room at the Hualalai Spa(Courtesy of Four Seasons Resort Hualalai)
My verdict on the signature Hawaiian Lomi Lomi massage, which uses rhythmic techniques and local traditions handed down from generations of kupuna (elders)? Hale (yes).
The private outdoor thatched hut, aka hale, was wonderfully quiet, the masseuse knew all the right spots, and inhaling the seductive scent of lavender and ylang ylang while my whole body exhaled? Dreamy. Afterwards, a little groggy and a lot zen, I lingered at the Waiea (Water of Life) Garden, meditating by the stream accessorized with rocks from around the island.
I wish I had more hang time at the spa, home to 19 indoor and outdoor treatment rooms offering massages, facials, body treatments, and wellness services including cupping, acupuncture, and Reiki. Thing is, I had a date to keep: I was headed to the Ka’upulehu Cultural Center to make a lei.
Surrounded by colorful exhibits and art focused on Hawaii’s fascinating history and culture, my giant needle and I create a divine pink-and-yellow plumeria necklace over the next hour or so.
A poolside room at Four Seasons Resort Hualalai(Courtesy of Four Seasons Resort Hualalai)
I’m completely enchanted as my mea hoʻokipa (host) Michelle Kaulumahiehie Amaral shares stories while I thread flowers. She’s worked at the center for more than 20 years, has been a professional hula soloist for more than four decades, and has been dedicated to preserving her native Hawaiian culture for her entire life.
Lei-making not your thing? Try your hand at ukulele or your hips at hula. The educational center offers a range of crafts and programs, and they’re all complimentary.
Finally, anyone have recommendations for five-star coconut sorbet in SF?
// Four Seasons Resort Hualalai, 72-100 Ka‘upulehu Drive (Kailua-Kona, Hawaii), fourseasons.com
