A Modern Guide to Palm Springs: Hipsters, Meet Old Hollywood
When you're in Palm Springs, see if you can find #thatpinkdoor. (Photo by Marisol Benitez)

A Modern Guide to Palm Springs: Hipsters, Meet Old Hollywood

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With Midcentury Modern architecture, poolside glamour, and vintage shops playing nice with delicious eateries and modern craft cocktails on hot desert days (and even hotter nights), what's not to love about Palm Springs?

Toss in a pinch of Old Hollywood glamour and new hipster cool, and Palm Springs is a spot-on destination for a chill long weekend, just a 90-minute flight from San Francisco.


Best Hotels in Palm Springs

The pool at the rainbow-hued Saguaro Palm Springs. (Courtesy of @yellowkorner_official)

Azure Sky

Not exactly new but totally fresh, the revamped 1959 hotel Azure Sky reopens for bookings this May. And with just 14 rooms open only to adult guests, this is an ideal stay for midcentury-modern design lovers to indulge in a romantic weekend. Most of the stylish rooms have kitchenettes and private patios, but we suggest you get out...at least to bask by the 4,500-square-foot pool and have a craft cocktail at the bar. In the evenings, cuddle up by a fire pit and watch the sun set over the San Jacinto mountains. // 1661 S Calle Palo Fierro, azureskyhotel.com


Arrive Hotel

Opened in early 2016, Arrive is Palm Springs' first hotel in decades to be built new from the ground up. Cofounded by Ezra Callahan, one of Facebook's founding team, Arrive is a modern boutique hotel with 32 rooms, a restaurant, coffee shop, and ice cream store-slash-gift-shop that targets locals as well as tourists. Unsurprisingly, there's a tech element—think no front-desk, the bartender has your keys—and rooms are equipped with Apple TV. Don't miss Dive-In movie nights and new moon yoga classes by the pool. // 1551 N Palm Canyon Dr., arrivehotels.com

L'Horizon

Fashionable jetsetters will already be familiar with L'Horizon, opened in 2015 from celebrity designer Steve Hermann. The iconic mid-century stay attracted the likes of Marilyn Monroe and Betty Grable back in the area's Hollywood heyday. After a major renovation, it draws modern travelers who seek exclusivity. Twenty-five bungalows have private patios, Frette linens, and Le Labo bath products; some suites have outdoor showers. The best part? No kids allowed. // 1050 E. Palm Canyon Dr., lhorizonpalmsprings.com

Ace Hotel & Swim Club

The Ace Hotel has all the chill vibes, famously hip ambiance, and a mix of industrial and organic design elements. And with two pools, room service by the outdoor fireplaces, a ping-pong table, spa and gym, you'll scarcely have to leave. Plus, check out the hotel's online events page for live open-air jazz, poolside DJs, and sunset yoga. // 701 E Palm Canyon Dr., acehotel.com/palmsprings

Parker Palm Springs

Welcome to the colorful world of Jonathan Adler and to one of Palm Springs' most iconic high-end hotels where the fun never stops thanks to tennis courts, Pétanque, croquet, a giant chess set, and three swimming pools. Wherever you stay, a trip to town isn't complete without some hang time at the Parker, where an eclectic mix of colors, textures, and design objects make the hotel eye candy for design freaks. // 4200 E Palm Canyon Dr, parkerpalmsprings.com

Korakia Pensione

Be transported into the serene Mediterranean-style universe of Korakia Pensione's two villas—one was once used as an escape for a Scottish painter; the other, the former home of a 1930s silent film star. Today, Korakia is one of "America's sexiest hotels" according to Forbes Traveler, with bougainvillea climbing the walls of lovely bungalows and guesthouses, and multiple swimming pools, gardens, and fountains. // 257 S Patencio Rd, korakia.com

Alcazar

In Palm Springs' Movie Colony neighborhood, Alcazar is a short walk from the Design District and has some stylish trappings of its own. The revamped Spanish Colonial building is surrounded by lush pink bougainvillea, lemon trees, and, of course, a swimming pool—it's a great affordable oasis to rest and relax. The hotel is also home to some of Palm Springs' top foodie destinations: Grab from-scratch pastries and breakfast all day at Cheeky's, and Italian eats at Birba. // 622 N Palm Canyon Dr., alcazarpalmsprings.com

The Saguaro

Whether or not you've heard of the Saguaro, you may have spotted its rainbow-hued facade, a darling of traveling Instagrammers including Tavi Gevinson. This is a kaleidoscopic hotel that, in addition to hosting quite the cocktail scene by the pool, offers yoga classes, complimentary bikes for cruising around, and spa treatments. // 1800 E Palm Canyon Dr, thesaguaro.com/palmsprings

Sparrows Lodge

Rustic charm, stone fire pits, communal space, and a vegetable garden make Sparrows Lodge a nice alternative to the mostly modern spirit of Palm Springs. Even if you're not staying at Sparrows, you can have food and drinks at The Barn Kitchen at lunch and dinner. May we also suggest a whole body purification treatment ($210, 90 minutes) in the open-air massage tent. // 1330 E. Palm Canyon Dr., sparrowslodge.com

Palm Springs' Best Restaurants and Bars

Cheeky's is the place for brunch—prepare to wait.

(Courtesy of @cheekysps)

Coffee + Snacks

Koffi

Koffi is to Palm Springs what Sightglass is to San Francisco—locally roasted, freshly brewed, and accompanied with pastries. If it's too hot for coffee, cool off with a fresh smoothie at one of four locations, including the newest in central Palm Springs with views of the San Jacinto mountains. // Multiple locations, kofficoffee.com

Peninsula Pastries

This is a story of a French couple coming to Palm Springs and making buttery pastry dreams come true. The flour is imported from the motherland, everything is baked daily and, while the husband is whipping up the delicious doughs, the wife takes care of the customers in the sweet-as-can-be pink-tiled shop. // 611 S Palm Canyon Dr #1, instagram.com

Townie Bagels

Planning provisions for a hike or just need a quick bite in the morning? Enter Townies Bagels. What began as a stand at the local farmer's market has become an in-demand brick and mortar run by two passionate ex-San Franciscans who know a good bagel—theirs are organic and water-boiled. Bagel lovers can bite into all imaginable varieties along with homemade cream cheeses. Closed Tuesdays. // 650 E Sunny Dunes Rd #5, towniebagels.com

Ernest Coffee

Serving Stumptown Coffee with a variety of alternative milks, plus an offering of savory and sweet nibbles, Ernest Coffee is a great starting point for the day. Then, when your feet begin to burn from walking around town, stop in for a late afternoon beer or wine and soak in the mountain view from the patio. // 1101 N Palm Canyon Dr, ernestcoffee.com

Ice Cream & Shop(pe)

We all scream for ice cream (and nicely curated gifts) at the Arrive Hotel's store and scoop shop serving such homemade flavors as avocado, Coachella Valley date, and cappuccino crunch. // 1151 N Palm Canyon Dr. Suite A, icecreamandshop.com


Restaurants + Bars

King's Highway & The Amigo Room

A contemporary bohemian diner at the Ace Hotel, this former Denny's now serves Stumptown Coffee, brunches, and dinners. Go for live jazz on Wednesday nights, and look out for bingo and trivia night at the Amigo Room. Your cash is no good here—cards only. // 701 E Palm Canyon Dr, kingshighwaydiner.com

Elmer's Restaurant

There are no hip design details or reclaimed wood here, but you will find a line of hungry brunchgoers at 30-year-old Elmer's. Don't miss their original German pancakes. // 1030 E Palm Canyon Dr, eatatelmers.com

Farm

A touch of Provence in the California desert, Farm dishes out French-style cuisine with a good portion of Golden State influence—think mostly organic, with vegan and gluten free moments. The daytime menu (8am to 2pm daily) is full of scrumptious dishes such as banana and Nutella crepes, duck confit omelettes, salads, and sandwiches. Dinner (served Friday through Tuesday nights) is a $62 pre-fixe situation. // 6 La Plaza, farmpalmsprings.com

Workshop Kitchen + Bar

A 90-year-old movie theater turned James Beard Award–winning restaurant, Workshop, in the Uptown Design District, serves up local-farm-to-table fare at dinner. With tons of small plates designed for sharing, not to mention exquisite riffs on classic cocktails, this is Palm Springs' special occasion destination. // 800 N Palm Canyon Dr, workshoppalmsprings.com

Cheeky's

If you haven't been to Cheeky's, you haven't had a proper Palm Springs brunch. Plan for a short wait to get a table and just order the whole menu—the chef's insanely delicious fancies change weekly but run the gamut from a keto waffle and tamale scramble to a breakfast quesadilla and custard cheese scrambled eggs. Order a fresh-pressed green juice to offset that bacon flight. // 622 N Palm Canyon Dr, cheekysps.com

Bootlegger Tiki

For a boozy night, you must find your way to Bootlegger Tiki, our favorite spot for tropical craft cocktails in the original home of Don the Beachcomber, which opened in 1953. Soak 'em up with bites from the hip speakeasy's tasty snack menu. // 1101 N Palm Canyon Dr, bootleggertiki.com

Birba

Find cheesy excellence at this Italian spot where the pizza is one of the best in the whole wide desert. Order up cocktails as well as handmade pasta, meat and seafood courses, and nice desserts. The open dining space and outdoor bar make Birba even more attractive on long Palm Springs nights. // 622 N Palm Canyon Dr, birbaps.com

El Jefe

Be the weather hot or hotter, El Jefe at The Saguaro is a great spot to hang out any time of the day. Mexican-inspired dishes, including heirloom carrot tacos and grilled Mexican corn, are served in a space evocative of a Wild West saloon as well as on the patio and lawn. The bar has an exquisite tequila collection. // 1800 E Palm Canyon Dr, thesaguaro.com

Things to Do in Palm Springs

(Courtesy of Palm Springs Art Museum)

Cruise Around

Most every hotel in PS offers complimentary bikes for exploring the many pretty neighborhoods and endless photo opps. For a manageable route, calm streets, and beautiful buildings and gardens, roll through the Indian Canyon, Twin Palms, Historic Tennis Club, and Tahquitz River Estates neighborhoods.

Find #thatpinkdoor

Instagrammers with the travel bug have likely stumbled upon pics of #thatpinkdoor, probably the most famous door in all Palm Springs. Grab your camera and go on the hunt. We will give you a hint: It's in the Indian Canyon neighborhood.

Moorten Botanical Garden

For just five bucks, you can enter the magical living world of Moorten's Botanical Garden, where cacti, succulents and other plants bloom in all their glory. An absolute must-visit. // 1701 S Palm Canyon Dr, moortenbotanicalgarden.com

Hike the Desert

The area around Palm Springs is dotted with amazing hikes that let you explore the wonders of the desert. Visit the world's largest California fan palm oasis via the Palm Canyon Trail; hike the Tahquitz Canyon Trail all the way to a 60-foot waterfall; or the heavily trafficked Murray Canyon Trail. Whichever hike you choose, bring as much water as you can carry, and be sure to wear layers and sunscreen. Bring a map (but don't obsess over it), and beware of rattlesnakes!

Aerial Tramway

Want to fly high? Aerial Tramway is an extraordinary ride over the majestic Chino Canyon. Get some food at the Pines Cafe or you opt for a hike through Mt. San Jacinto State Park. // 1 Tram Way, pstramway.com

Palm Springs Art Museum

As well as being a good hideaway from the heat, the museum is a great place to discover work by local artists and get inspired. Check out the work of Hard-Edge abstractionist Helen Lundeberg (through March 27, 2022). // 101 N Museum Dr, psmuseum.org

Day Trips

If your feet are itchy for more adventure, easy day trips from Palm Springs are plentiful. There is the vividly, colorful Salvation Mountain about an hour-and-a-half out, as well as, of course, Joshua Tree for amazing sunrises and sunsets. Check in at the new Autocamp outpost there and go explore Pioneertown with a stop for the barbecue at Pappy & Harriet's.

Modernism Week

Every year in February (Feb. 17-27, 2022) (with a fall preview weekend in October), mid-century modern design fans make the trip for 10 days packed with events—tours of usually not-so-accessible places, exhibitions, movies, performances, and parties. Tickets sell out fast, so make sure you get yours on time. // modernismweek.com

Best Shopping in Palm Springs

Need something to wear? Head to Trina Turk HQ for colorful resort look year-round.

(Courtesy of @trinaturk)

Palm Desert

It's technically not Palm Springs, but there is good vintage and consignment to be had in Palm Desert at The Fine Art of Design(73717 Highway 111, Palm Desert) as well as contemporary brands, including Heidi Merrick and Stampd, at the tasteful Elizabeth & Prince(73487 El Paseo, Ste. F3, Palm Desert; plus, find locations in Palm Springs and La Quinta).

Design District

The Design District abounds with cool interior shops, vintage stores, and fashion boutiques for spendy types. The splashy headquarters of sassy Trina Turk(891 N. Palm Canyon Dr.) is a must for playful printed swimwear and summer frocks.

Vintage

Palm Springs is a vintage lover's heaven and The Frippery (664 N Palm Canyon Dr.) does a good job sourcing pieces from all decades. Lovers of '70s fashions should stop by Mitchells(106 S. Indian Canyon Dr.), gently worn designer threads from the likes of Pucci, Gucci, and more.

Desert Hills Premium Outlets

Many a Bay Area fashionista on a budget has made the pilgrimage to Cabazon, CA to shop ridiculous deals at big-name brand outlet stores including Alexander McQueen, Celine, Frette, John Varvatos, and more. // 48400 Seminole Dr. (Cabazon), premiumoutlets.com/outlet/desert-hills


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