Atelier Crenn: Where the Snow is Really Falling
Attention all you San Franciscans who stood around waiting for snowflakes to fall from the sky this weekend past. Snow is trending hard at molecular-minded spots like Commis in Oakland and Sons & Daughters in Nob Hill. And there’s a 100 percent chance of snowfall on Fillmore Street this week—albeit from a fancy Swiss Pacojet processing machine at Dominique Crenn's new Atelier Crenn. Made from sheep or goat milk, this feathery, flavor-dense powder accompanies the ethereal scatter of Crenn's "Jardin d'Hiver": small cooked carrots, lightly toasted grains, parsnip puree, salted crystallized pecans and—wait for it—sheep yogurt "snow."
“It's actually a very light granité,” says Crenn, who freezes sheep or goat yogurt overnight so it turns to solid ice, then places it in the aforementioned processor to ever-so-finely grate it just before serving. No stabilizers or sugars are needed. “The result is very pure," says Crenn. "It's an amazing texture.” Proving its authenticity, this edible “snow” melts when victimized by too much food photography (as in the image above) or if left to sit for five or six minutes on the plate. The chance of the latter looks almost as good as our shot at a blizzard.