St. Helena, the sweet Napa Valley town sandwiched between Calistoga and Yountville, recently underwent something of a renaissance.
With plenty of new and redesigned tasting rooms and restaurants from those both well-known and fresh-on-the-scene, if its been a while since you've been to town, you'll be pleasantly surprised.
On this weekend itinerary, we hit the best of St. Helena right now, from the restoration of Ink Grade's Home Ranch to the excellent dinner destination Charlie’s.
Friday: Wine Tasting + Check-in at Harvest Inn
(Courtesy of Harvest Inn)
Afternoon Tasting at Newfound Wines
There’s only one way to kick off a weekend in Napa Valley: with a wine tasting. The small, up-and-coming artisan winery Newfound Wines opened its first tasting room in the spring. In the semi-hidden space in downtown St. Helena, which feels more cozy home than Napa showpiece, you’ll get a taste of clean, fresh, organic semillons and aromatic and layered grenaches. The laid-back approach here is a perfect way to ease into a weekend of wine-stained luxury. Tastings are by appointment only. // 1200 Oak Ave., newfoundwines.com
Check in at the Harvest Inn.
Like a storybook village in a redwood forest, the Harvest Inn is a delightfully charming home base for a weekend in St. Helena. Five lodges housing 81 guest rooms are tucked among the grounds' eight acres, where you'll also find two swimming pools with hot tubs (one is adults only) and a koi pond. The signature brick paths, bridges, and garden walls find their way inside too, forming grand wood-burning fireplaces in rooms with private, vineyard-facing patios. The rooms themselves have a quiet, earth-toned luxury translated into cloud-soft beds and generous tiled baths.
In the main building, the Harvest Table specializes in local fare, serving it up at the busy bar, on the patio, and in the dining room. Renovated this spring, it's a spiffed-up showcase for executive chef Colin Rupp’s fantastic food. For dinner, order dishes like Niman Ranch pork porterhouse, udon alla zozzona with lardon and Calabrian chile, and campfire trout with salsa verde. It’s also the perfect spot for a leisurely pre-wine tasting breakfast (think huevos rancheros and French toast). // 1 Main St., harvestinn.com
Saturday: Wine Tasting + Dinner at Charlie's
Ink Grade's architecturally stunning new winery on Howell Mountain.
(Courtesy of @archgiz)
Wine Tasting in St. Helena
Don’t be shy at breakfast; you’re going to need that cushion for the day’s three wine tastings---which is about the most we can handle while still keeping it classy. Fill up at the Harvest Inn or The Station (1153 Main St.), a bakery and cafe in a vintage gas station a few blocks away.
Stony Hill Vineyard
Alighted on the slopes of Spring Mountain, surrounded by oak forest and expansive views of the valley, Stony Hill Vineyard brings the drama. Inside, the 1951 mid-century manor does more than hold its own. The house is a design magazine dream of authentic period furniture and accents. Tastings are held in private break-out spaces in the house’s original rooms, including the spectacular wood-paneled study. They’re the perfect complement to the winery’s library, which although it's traditionally been known as an exquisite producer of organic and biodynamic white wines like riesling and chardonnay, is lately earning plenty of attention for its dry, high-elevation cab. Tastings start at $75/person and are by reservation only. // 3331 St. Helena Hwy North, stonyhillvineyard.com
Ink Grade
Ink Grade may be a relatively new label, but the land it farms has a 150-year-old winemaking pedigree. Their recently reconstructed Home Ranch on Howell Mountain brings Napa Valley’s natural beauty inside. They offer several tasting experiences by appointment Thursday through Monday, some of which include tours of the estate. // 699 St. Helena Hwy, inkgrade.com
Orin Swift Cellars
A few years back, cult favorite Orin Swift Cellars opened its brand new tasting room in downtown St. Helena’s historic Art Deco bank building. True to the brand’s elegant yet quirky character, the space is simultaneously eclectic and well-appointed, with breakout lounge spaces arrayed around vintage furnishings and unusual art. Orin Swift’s three tastings—Rock ($45/person), Paper ($60), and Scissors ($125)—range from standing bar and seated experiences to one held in a hidden room was restored with a touch of offbeat love. The wines here bring the intensity and strangeness you’d expect from winemaker Dave Phinney, with opulent Bordeaux-style cabs and blends, delicately balanced chardonnays, and the unique pinot noir cuvee Burnt Sacrifice (produced in partnership with the Napa Valley Community Foundation to support wildfire rebuilding efforts). // 1321 Main St., orinswift.com
Dinner at Charlie’s
Locally sourced, globally-inspired restaurant Charlie's, is a fairly recent addition to St. Helena’s food scene. Chef-owner Elliot Bell has a way of making comfort foods feel one of a kind. Currently, he’s adding caviar to mini corndogs, brown butter to aged Flannery steak, and unctuous toppings like charred eggplant bechamel to fire-charred flatbreads. Seafood is one of many bright spots on the menu and you can try several timely delicacies in the aptly named seafood party. Tasty cocktails, mostly uncomplicated drinks with crowd-pleasing flavors like seasonal fruit and poblano accompany a strong wine list full of both local and Old World vintages. // 1327 Railroad Ave., charliesnv.com
Sunday: Breakfast at Model Bakery + Shopping
Model Bakery's English muffins are regularly selected as one of Oprah's Favorite Things.
(Courtesy of @modelbakery)
Breakfast at Model Bakery
This Oprah-loved bakery on Main Street has been on this spot since 1908. Best known for the English muffins they make in 1920s-era ovens, Model also has cookies, pies, breads, and more. Start the morning with a breakfast sandwich stacked with scrambled eggs, Canadian bacon, and cheddar cheese. // 1315 N Main St., themodelbakery.com
Shop Local
Before heading out of town, take some time to pop into the row of indie shops along St. Helena’s high street. Some of our favorites include the home and garden stores Acres (1219 Main St.) and Vintage Home (1201 Main St.), clothing boutiques Elyse Walker (1381 Main St.) and Pearl Wonderful (1219C Main St.), ceramics shop Carter and Co (1231 Main St.), and jewelry purveyor Patina (1342 Main St). For design lovers, it still doesn't get much cooler than mainstay Martin Design (1350 Main St.).
Your Napa Valley afternoon awaits.
(Courtesy of Joseph Phelps Vineyards)
Sometimes the best part of Wine Country is simply having nowhere else to be.
Set in the hills just outside St. Helena, Joseph Phelps Vineyards is made for settling in with thoughtfully curated tasting and culinary experiences that bring wine and food together with the beauty of the surrounding vineyards. Make Joseph Phelps part of your next Napa Valley escape.
// 200 Taplin Rd. (St. Helena), plan your visit at exploretock.com
Thank you to our partners at Joseph Phelps Vineyards.
