There are many things to love about petite Piccino in the Dogpatch, but as an inveterate reader of wine lists, I can say that, much of the time, short and well-selected is better than long and all-inclusive.

                                             

Here you see a selection of four whites, one rosé and three reds. And that’s it—as simple, graceful and tasty as the food at this friendly spot. On a sunny afternoon for lunch, the selection was easy—the rosé with the Napolitano pizza.