The Path to Ramen Enlightenment
Izakaya Sozai in the Inner Sunset. Photography by Ed Anderson
Before former Nopa sous chef Richie Nakano launched his Hapa Ramen stand at the Thursday Ferry Plaza Farmers Market this summer, he did his due diligence—analyzing everything from broths to noodles to chashu in ramen joints from SF to NY. Then, he took what he learned and came up with a bowl he could call his own. Here are his picks.
THE RESEARCH
Izakaya Sozai (Inner Sunset)
“This one is all about the chashu. I think Ritsu Osuka makes the best pork belly I’ve ever tasted. It’s never dry. Never overly fatty. And he gets a ton of flavor in it and cuts it into big, thick slabs. I’ve been trying to replicate what he does, and I can’t figure it out. His broth is good, but it’s all about the pork with that guy.”
1500 Irving St., 415-742-5122, izakayasozai.com
Katana-ya (Union Square)
“This is the best standby place. No one thing stands out, but if you get the standard Katana-Ya ramen with extra-rich broth, they put everything in there—chashu, gyoza. It’s, like, filthy. You feel kind of bad when you’re eating it, but it’s really, really good. It’s the most comforting bowl to eat. The whole is more than the sum of its parts.”
430 Geary St., 415-771-1280
Halu (Inner Richmond)
“It isn’t the best bowl of ramen, but it has a really fun atmosphere. It’s the best place to go hang out and eat—it feels so funky Japanese. It’s run by a family, so the mom is cooking and the daughter’s waiting tables. They also have the best selection of Japanese beer, like Suntory.”
312 Eighth Ave., 415-221-9165
Namu (Inner Richmond)
“This is probably the best ramen in San Francisco right now. They put so much craft into what they’re doing. They’re the only restaurant I know that’s making their own noodles from scratch, start to finish. They’re pushing hard to make it really authentic. They’ve limited it to about six bowls a day. You have to get there early. It’s super-rich, it has great flavor, and they put their own kimchi in it. They’re using farm-fresh ingredients and, for the broth, sourcing some weird roosters because they have good flavor.”
439 Balboa St., 415-386-8332, namusf.com
Oyaji (Outer Richmond)
“They make the best shoyu broth out there. It’s just super clean and defined. They don’t make it greasy, just clean, pure flavor. It doesn’t have that MSG weirdness going on. The toppings are nicely made, but really it’s just that pure flavor.”
3123 Clement St., 415-379-3604, oyajirestaurant.com
Santa (San Mateo)
“Around here, it’s the closest thing you can get to a bowl in Los Angeles or NY. Get here early. The tonkatsu broth is really rich and creamy. The chashu is beautiful and melty. The noodles are like angel-hair, thin and delicate with a good chew to them. Definitely worth the drive.”
1944 S. El Camino Real, 650-344-5918
Santouka (Los Angeles)
“Their toroniku made with pork jowl is just really marbled and really delicious. They serve it on the side so you can dip it in the broth, sort of like you’re doing shabu-shabu. They do this nice salt broth. It’s a nice bowl of ramen. It’s in the Mitsuya market, so it feels really Japanese.”
3760 S. Centiela Ave., L.A., 310-391-1101
Daikokuya (Los Angeles)
“There are a few of these in Los Angeles. In proximity to San Francisco, this is the closet thing to [New York City’s] Ippudo out there. As far as craft and beauty, its tonkatsu broth is amazing. It’s a difficult broth to make.”
327 E. First St., L.A., 213-626-1680
Ippudo (New York)
“For ramen worshippers, this is like going to church. It’s the best thing out there. They make their noodles; they make the best stock. They basically give you a bowl of noodles with stock, and that’s all you get. The flavors are so complex and simple at the same time. It’s rich without coating your mouth in fat. It’s one of those culinary wonders.”
65 Fourth Ave., NYC, 212-388-0088, ippudo.com/ny
THE RESULTS
Hapa Ramen (Ferry Plaza Farmers Market)
“My broth is influenced by Ippudo’s. We use dashi, chicken and pork. But what separates ours is that we add a ton of deeply caramelized vegetables, too. The toppings were influenced by Katana-Ya because their menu has a bowl of ramen with everything in it—fried chicken, pork, an egg. They put gyoza in theirs, but we just subbed that out for vegetables, like kale or snap peas. My pork is influenced by Izakaya Sozai’s. I just met the chef on Sunday, actually. I was kind of shy. I went up to him and I said, ‘No, seriously, your pork is the best!’ Mine still isn’t quite like his, but we’re working on it. In terms of what Namu does—making everything by hand—they made me see what’s possible. I haven’t actually been to Japan. And I didn’t train in any ramen restaurants. I think it’s all pretty top secret, though. I think that if I asked them to tell me how they make their ramen, they would just tell me to get out.”
Thursdays, 10 a.m.–2 p.m., haparamensf.com
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By on January 31, 2012
for future ramen craving times...
By on January 20, 2012
Ramen looks yummy! Lolz. I love ramen amazingly though it can grows my temptation. Thanks for letting us know!
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Yummy!! I love to eat Ramen. It's my favorite Japanese food. Mom like to make it so tasty though. Thanks!
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By on January 09, 2012
After a long hard day working up and down on my Ladders even the thought of these pictures makes me hungry. GO GO San Mateo!
By on January 05, 2012
Ramen looks tasty! Lolz. love it amazingly. It's been so long delicious food. Thanks!
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By on August 16, 2011
It’s about freaking time! After waiting for a long long time, and after literally months of fruitless enquiries to media 8 entertainment (a hearty “I hope your ramen is limp” to media 8!), I’m happy to report that the Ramen Girl will be out in Japan on Jan 17. The Ramen Girl (trailer here) is a movie about an American girl (Brittany Murphy) who is abandoned by her boyfriend in Japan.
By on August 07, 2011
Sampling ramen from SF to NY is like learning how to make pizza by sampling Little Ceasar's to Domino's, and presuming that you can come up with great pizza.
By on July 28, 2011
Whoa. this is something SUPER. I would want my wife my learn how to make me ramen. Thank you so much for this.
By on June 30, 2011
Sapporo-Ya in the Japantown center makes their own noodles fresh daily.
By on April 25, 2011
Shin-Sen-Gumi Hakata Ramen in Gardena is the best in the LA area for pork broth Ramen. Definitely beats all the Sawtelle outfits.
By on April 06, 2011
What about Orenchi in Santa Clara????
By on March 25, 2011
Orienchi (santa clara) & Ramen Dojo (san mateo) - these are the only two edible ramen. Food in SF City is not getting better these days. work in the city, not many choices for good food
By on March 23, 2011
Including Hapa Ramen in this list is an insult to ramen.
By on August 28, 2010
There's a Bay Area Santouka location in Saratoga, seriously the BEST in the Bay.
Personally, I found Kahoo overrated.
By on August 16, 2010
@Tom. Reading comprehension much? He didn't proclaim his ramen as the best. The point of the article is this chef was inspired by various different styles of ramen (some of which he declares the best for different aspects) and he thus arrived at the particular ramen he sells.
Just had a bowl of Hapa Ramen's pork ramen. Very nice, though I could easily have eaten a 2nd bowl.
By on August 12, 2010
Yes, Richie you need to come to Japan! But first, you'll need to know the difference between Tonkatsu and Tonkotsu. If you're ever in Tokyo, stop by Bassanova and I'll give you a personal tour.
By on August 04, 2010
I really love broth and noodles. Ramen, pho, whatever. I'm not that concerned with what it's called. If the noodles and broth are tasty, I'm happy. I've had Hapa Ramen three times now and have been pleased every time. It seems like the food is also still evolving. I get excited to think about what they will be doing a year from now.
By on July 23, 2010
How shocking that Richie chose Hapa Ramen as his favorite. Self-promote much? If his hype was as good as his ramen, he'd be a real sensation, instead of a self-proclaimed one.
By on July 21, 2010
Kahoo is San jose is my favorite, best pork, best broth, best noodles... I was introduced to it by a Japanese friend who told me it was the best he had ever eaten in the states... I will definitely come by and give yours a try - it sounds super good!
By on July 21, 2010
I can appreciate that Namu goes through the effort to make their noodles from scratch but I don't think the complete end product is that great. The broth is masked by all the kimchi and well, it tastes like a kimchi broth. Within San Francisco, I think Sozai still has the best bowl of ramen all around.
By on July 20, 2010
Best Ramen? Our places are not even listed ;(
By on July 20, 2010
Was just reading my 7x7 and enjoyed the photos/article, but Richie really needs to make a visit to Japan for a Ramen adventure...
By on July 20, 2010
Can't believe Momofuku didn't make the cut here. They make everything in house. Bacon Dashi! Come on!
By on July 20, 2010
Yes, Santa in San Mateo is really good. Actually San Mateo offers lots of decent dining options.
By on July 20, 2010
nice shots Ed!
By on July 20, 2010
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