When the World's 50 Best Restaurants recently released its 2017 list, just three women-run businesses made the cut. And, as of 2016, it has been estimated that only 4.7 percent of American chefs and head cooks are female. The professional kitchen, it seems, is still a man's turf.
But Bay Area diners are quite accustomed to seeing talented women at the helm of their favorite restaurants, following in the footsteps of such culinary trailblazers as Alice Waters, Traci Des Jardins, and Dominique Crenn. This year, in fact, some of the city's most promising restaurants star lady toques in executive and ownership roles.
To sit down and talk with them about their challenges and goals is telling: There are tales of kitchens fraught with subtle and not-so-subtle discrimination, snubs from investors, and a lot of dudes telling dirty jokes. Nearly all of these women said they are driven by the hope of nurturing young chefs and restaurant talent, men as well as women, and of fostering community, whether through collaborations with nonprofits and school programs or among their own teams and customer base. Every last one of them has, as Barzotto's chef Michelle Minori put it, "developed plenty of grit" to get their jobs done to delicious effect.
Meet eight of the city's hottest chefs (who just happen to have xx chromosomes) who are leveling the playing field in San Francisco.
Angela Pinkerton, Pastry Chef at the forthcoming Che Fico and Theorita
BONA FIDES: The first executive pastry chef at Eleven Madison Park; production kitchen lead at Craftsman & Wolves.
PASSION DRIVER: "Pie—it brings me back to my childhood. It's so simple, but the love and practice of the baking craft is very evident in the results."
FUTURE PERFECT: "I consider myself very committed to my staff (my "kids"), and I will continue to push them to build skills that help them maneuver through life, not just through the kitchen. I hope this translates into the cultures they create when they run their own kitchens. I am also focused on Theorita, a pastry shop/dinette opening in San Francisco this fall. I want to translate what I learned about food and cooking in my past fine-dining experiences, and meld it into meals that everyone has familiarity with while elevating the quality and craftsmanship of the experience."