San Francisco may not be a winter wonderland like New York City, but that’s also why it’s great: Here, you can take in the magic with only a light jacket required.
Plus, SF dazzles with holiday splendor in December even without snow. Posh hotel halls are decked out with decor, restaurants roll out special menus, and Christmas markets pop up in nearly every neighborhood. It seems the city's going all out this year, even more than ever, and the historic Union Square is right at the heart of it all.
Whether you live in SF or beyond, this is our perfect itinerary for a weekend holiday staycation.
Friday Night: Historic Hotels + Modern Holiday Fare
Cavana's annual Nochebuena pop-up runs through December 30th.
(Courtesy of @cavana.sf)
If you're plotting an overnight staycation, now is the time to check in at one of SF's historic hotels in downtown or Nob Hill, which feel more opulent than ever at the holidays.
Check in.
The Palace Hotel's (2 New Montgomery St.) Christmas trimmings were Instagram-able well before there was Instagram; don't miss a photo op in the lavishly decorated lobby or Garden Court restaurant where you can also enjoy high tea and rub elbows with Santa. // For the best proximity to Union Square's ice rink, tuck in at the Westin St. Francis (335 Powell St.), where young princes and princesses will delight in executive pastry chef Jean-Francois Houdré’s towering 12-foot Sugar Castle (plus their new steakhouse by Michael Mina and bar by Steph Curry). // The Fairmont (950 Mason St.) of course, is home to the iconic, and ever-jaw-dropping two-story gingerbread house, in which you can even book a dining experience for up to 10 guests.
Dine at a Nikkei-style wonderland.
For dinner, head to buzzy rooftop bar Kaiyo (701 Third St.) where their themed Nikkei Navidad winter experience features tropical holiday decor, festive glassware, and toasty beverages to stay cozy up on the 12th floor.
Have a nightcap.
Walk over to Kaiyo's sister rooftop bar, Cavaña (Luma Hotel, 100 Channel St. 17th floor), for a spirited nightcap at the annual Nochebuena pop-up running through December 30th. Here festivity pairs with playful cocktails that will transport you to a Latin American beach much warmer than here.
Saturday: Sweets, Champs, Shopping + Shows
SF is where the 'Nutcracker' holiday tradition began back in the 1940s.
(© San Francisco Ballet, photo by Lindsey Rallo)
Pastries and shopping in Union Square.
Now that we've left the "doom loop" narrative in the dust, Union Square feels merrier and brighter than ever. Start the day at the second new location of B. Patisserie, tucked away from the bustle but still in the heart of it all (350 Powell St.). Order kouign amann along with a hot cup of coffee, then take a seat at an outdoor table for some solid people watching around the Christmas tree and holiday ice rink.
Once fueled, it's time to get some shopping in (pro tip: duck into the new Pop Mart [200 Powell St.] for the labubu lovers in your life). While you're wandering, enjoy the Winter Walk, Union Square's popular seasonal tradition (December 13-24) that takes over two pedestrian blocks and transforms them into a wonderland with food trucks, local vendors, activities for kids, and live music nightly.
Have a bubbly afternoon.
Rest your feet in style at The Rotunda (150 Stockton St.), the classy spot inside Neiman Marcus, bejeweled with a stained glass dome. A thorough afternoon tea is on offer, but you can also just order a glass of bubbly (there are seven by-the-glass options on the menu) and slurp down a few oysters or their lobster bisque—all with a killer vantage four floors above Union Square.
Dinner and a show, but make it hella festive.
The Vault Garden (555 California St.) hosts its 6th annual winter event through December 31st. This year’s theme? Santa’s Naughty List. Make reservations to imbibe specialty cocktails like the Jack Frost (Ford’s gin, coconut, lime, makrut lime leaf) and feast on raw bar offerings, shared plates, and entrées in a twinkling tent with lounge-y seating.
'Tis the season to splurge on theater tickets. For the most classic experience, sashay over to the SF Ballet (301 Van Ness Ave.) for Tchaikovsky’s Nutcracker (through December 28)—after all, this is where the American holiday tradition began back in 1944. // Make your way to the SF Symphony (201 Van Ness Ave.) where a spate of live orchestra holiday programming features characters from Frozen to Jon Batiste. // Make the holidays gay at the SF Gay Men’s Chorus' Holiday Spectacular, which you can catch at the Golden Gate Theater (1 Taylor St.) on December 12th and 13th (a new venue for them!) and at Davies Symphony Hall (201 Van Ness Ave.) on December 24th. // Feeling a little bah-humbug? You won’t stay that way at A.C.T.'s young conservatory presentation of Rudolph & Scrooge: A YC Holiday Double Feature playing December 18-20 at The Strand Theater (1127 Market St.).
Be naughty, have a nightcap.
If those over-the-top Christmas cocktail bars are your bag, you'll find plenty of 'em in SF. But for a little more elbow room above the crowds, head to Starlite (450 Powell St.) at the tippy top of the Beacon Grand for a big dose of historic city splendor, spiffed up in 2024. Go big with the Rolls Royce Pina Colada for two, served in a frozen pineapple with sparklers, or with their new premium bottle service. If it’s too crowded upstairs, go down below to The Hidden Library for Prohibition vibes and an almost secret collection of rare whiskeys serviced by a bartender-butler. Find the door next to the hotel’s grand fireplace to sip in the domed-ceiling library lounge.
Sunday: Festive at the Ferry Building
The Ferry Building is the perfect spot for gifts like Acme Bread's mini panettone.
(Courtesy of @ferrybuilding)
While you could swing by in the evenings for Let's Glow SF (5:30pm to 10pm, through Dec. 14), mornings are sill our favorite time to pop into the Ferry Building (1 Ferry Building, Embarcadero) which, come holiday season, is one of our go-to spots for gift shopping. Stuff their stockings with finds from Book Passage, Rechiutti Chocolates, and Fog City Flea.
In December, there's much going on here, including a session for cookie decorating (Dec. 14 as well as The Helpers Artisan Boutique Pop-Up (Fridays and Saturdays through Dec. 20), a marketplace and advocacy organization for neurodiverse artists. Hum along as you shop to the live music performances that are part of the Ferry Building’s Holiday Music Series, featuring school choirs, youth bands, and acclaimed vocal ensembles on select dates in December.
Final Stop: A Gilded Greenhouse
Jump across the street from the Ferry Building to 1 Hotel (8 Mission St.) and rest your weary holiday feet in the magically transformed outdoor patio at Terrene. Through January 9th, the outdoor lounge becomes a cozy, covered Winter Greenhouse, with greenery, glowing lights, seasonal drinks, and their signature Cowgirl Creamery fondue served with Acme bread. Speaking of greenery, check out their wreath making workshop with Natalie B. on December 13th.
