It’s really great that Coastal Marin and Sonoma counties make for an excellent day trip or quick overnight all year long; you can get all the way up to Sea Ranch in under three hours.
But sometimes that well worn ease and convenience creates a mental barrier, limiting how far we are willing to go to explore. There are over 300 more miles to the California state line, so why not venture a little farther along the North Coast?
Let’s begin this route above our typical boundary of the northern Sonoma coast. Get up here whichever way you want, even extending the road trip a couple of days to meander through Bodega Bay and check out the new Bar Auklet (11180 Hwy 1) in Point Reyes, or hit Patrick Cappiello’s new wine bar, The Siren’s Cellar (10439 Hwy 1), tucked behind the Jenner Outpost next to Cafe Aquatica. However you arrive, this trip’s official start is in Mendocino.
The terrace at the Hill House at Trailborn Mendocino(Christian Harder, courtesy of Trailborn Hotels & Resorts)
This picture perfect village is packed with charm and begs you to linger for a couple days. It’s also packed with history, natural wonder, and a whole lot of cemeteries—all interesting and worth exploring. The place to book your stay this trip is at the brand new Hill House at Trailborn (10701 Palette Dr.), the first California property of the Trailborn boutique adventure hotel brand. The Hill House Wine & Grocer is their lobby store with a super cool feature: a wall of self-dispensing local wine by the ounce, where you can grab a (real) stemmed glass, swipe your room key, select the pour size you want, and it will automatically charge your room. Take your glass out to the firepits out front to enjoy al fresco, and if that chilly Mendo fog rolls in, there are cushy blankets to curl into. Soon to come is Pizza Standard Time, an onsite pizza shop and cocktail bar.
A continental breakfast every morning serves up a variety of yummy GoodLife Cafe & Bakery pastries, the locals favorite down the street. And a special side room, called the Cabot Cove Detective Library, is for Angela Lansbury fans. She towers over the space in a giant portrait—and there’s even a mystery-solving game to play, a homage to the property which served as a backdrop to the fictional town of Cabot Cove where Murder, She Wrote took place.
Out of the many restaurant options in Mendocino you can’t miss the new Brickery and Waiting Room by the landmark Cafe Beaujolais team. Located in the same spot as the original restaurant (961 Ukiah St.), the sister businesses are a great addition to town. The suitably named Waiting Room is up front and offers espresso drinks and baked goods in the early part of the day, then transitions to a little lounge later on with happy hour snacks, wine, and beer. Vinyl plays prominently and there are cozy seats for lingering. For The Brickery, walk around to the spacious back garden area and order at the window from a menu that features almost too much to choose from. They’ve got great wood-fired pizzas, salads, soups, and smashburger specials on certain days.
MacCallum House(Nikolas Zvolensky)
Explore nearby beaches, like the epic Big River Beach at the Mendocino Headlands (Hwy 1 & Big River Rd.) just south of the village or Russian Gulch State Park (12301 Hwy 1), just north of the village, famous for the “Devil’s Punchbowl,” a 100-by-60-foot tunnel formed by pounding waves.
Also spend time wandering around the village, popping into cute shops like the Mendocino Book Company (102 S. School St.); Study Club (10470 Lansing St.), which has chic stuff in a lovely setting; the new multipurpose, Valerie (10546 Lansing St.); and Mendo Made (10550 Lansing St.), a collective of local makers and goods where you’ll find flower pressed clothing, ceramics, and even a special stash of Tam’s Jam from out at Emandal in Willits.
For a special dinner (maybe on your last night before leaving Mendocino?), duck into the MacCallum House (45010 Albion St.). It’s in a historic Victorian home—which is kind of the theme here—and executive chef Alan Kantor offers a five-course tasting or a la carte menu of seasonally-driven dishes. In the same camp as the Chez Panisse realm, MacCallum House highlights simple seasonal dishes. Their caprese salad with housemade fresh mozzarella and juicy, perfectly seasoned and olive oil-drizzled tomatoes was perfect. The wine list is vast and local-leaning, and there’s a very cute bar on the side.
Don’t leave before checking out the new Dome at Mendocino Grove, just a couple of miles south of the village (9500, 9601 Hwy 1). The glampground unveiled it in June, a space intended for mindfulness with open sitting hours for self guided reflection. A weekly gentle Vinyasa flow yoga class incorporates sound bath elements, a closing aromatherapy adjustment, and Oracle Cards. You can also book tarot readings. All of this is led by Kati Bilsky, who came up from Esalen in Big Sur to be the resident instructor here.
Mendocino Grove Dome(Courtesy of Mendocino Grove)
Departing on your journey north you should first stop at the tiny town of Caspar and the just reopened Caspar Inn. Caspar Bread and Wine (14957 Caspar Rd.) is run by a team that obviously cares about craft and community, and opening the front door feels like stumbling into a grange hall with awesome things to eat and drink. They have a sourdough bread program and pastries and coffee available by day; at night it turns into a natural wine bar. On our visit there were just two food items being served, written on a chalkboard: homemade potato chips and a salami sandwich. We all ordered them and they were the best things ever. Often there is live music from visiting artists, or events like storytelling. This is a community center above all—and you can tell.
Your next destination is just about 20 minutes away, with the opportunity to explore Fort Bragg and other cool spots along the way. First, stop off at the Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens (18220 Hwy 1), an amazing 47-acre property that you would never know is that big from the road. Pathways, twists, and turns take you all the way to the coastal bluff, with robust botanical specimens all along. There’s a huge selection of rhododendrons and camellias, a vibrant dahlia garden, and even a vegetable garden with produce that goes to the local food pantry.
Nearby is Noyo Harbor, a pocket of boats and activity right at the mouth of the Noyo River. You’ll find some of the best fish and chips around at Sea Pal Cove (32390 N. Harbor Dr.), a bare bones operation with a really good fryer. The chowder has clams the size of golf balls and there are multiple craft beers on tap to wash it all down. Sit on the big waterside deck and watch the sea birds and sea lions play in the water.
If you time your visit right, you can stop into the new Schnaubelt Distillery (32425 N. Harbor Dr.) for a tasting, or to grab a bottle. There’s also the popular, female-owned Princess Seafood (32096 N. Harbor Dr.), the culmination of the all-women fishing vessel, F/V Princess. Visit the newer restaurant at the river mouth or the original fish market (32410 N. Harbor Dr.) where you can slurp down a few oysters. And just opened this July, Floyd & Connie’s is a super cool spot that you find tucked away in the Snug Harbor RV Park (32150 N. Harbor Dr.), with updated, nostalgic Americana food and legit cocktails that started as a pop-up in 2022 by a husband-and-wife team.
A dish at the Harborview Bistro at Noyo Harbor Inn in Fort Bragg(Brendan McGuigan)
Perched above the harbor with views for days is the Noyo Harbor Inn & Harborview Bistro (500 Casa Del Noyo), a perfect stop for a beverage or snack (or overnight stay). A big draw here is their wide selection of whiskeys, in cocktails or in flights, as well as their own bitters line. Try the Mendocino Spirit flight for local tastes like the Ukiah-based Charbay R5, a hop-flavored spirit distilled with Bear Republic Brewery’s Racer 5 IPA. There’s even a cigar lounge!
Don’t linger too long, because your next basecamp is at the very special Inn at Newport Ranch, just ten miles north of Fort Bragg (31502 Hwy 1). Owner Will Jackson, a young-at-heart 98-year-old, purchased the first 850 acres of this historic property in 1985. Today, its 2,200 acres span the craggy coastline and forested inland hills.
A very old Monterey Cyprus tree (which appears on the Inn’s logo) stands guard over the inn’s main entrance, held in by the gorgeous stained glass doors and wood architecture. David Sellars, a graduate of the Yale School of Architecture, finished this project in 2015, and you’ll notice inspiration by Frank Lloyd Right, as well as Japanese and Craftsman design styles. Many of the materials were salvaged from local sources.
The Inn at Newport Ranch has only 10 rooms and suites (and one stunning house available to rent), and all are one of a kind. Windows feature prominently to let the landscape in, and some of the construction built around existing trees in the indoor spaces. Suites have full kitchens stocked with French presses, real milk in the fridge, complementary snacks, and even little cans of Fever Tree tonic.
But even if you’re in one of those suites, you probably won’t cook much because the in-house restaurant is outstanding. A full breakfast is included, with a vast assortment of dishes like polenta with poached eggs, house smoked bacon, fresh juices, and more. It’s a delight to start the day here.
A guest room at the Inn at Newport Ranch(Nikolas Zvolensky)
Dinner is also on offer by reservation in a tasting format four nights a week, and there’s a “Ranch Supper” everyday except for Thursdays. All seasonally-driven and made with lots of foraged and local ingredients, everything down to the cultured butter is homemade. You can tell that culinary consultant Adam Lawrence and executive chef Nick Wells truly love cooking and are excited about their jobs.
The best way to explore the property is on an ATV tour, bookable online along with a few other excursions and adventures. Ask if Otis Brown is available to take you, a real gem of a human born just a few miles north of here in Westport. He knows a ton, and will help tell the Inn at Newport story, like the fact that Will Jackson loves picnics so much that he created 15 scenic picnic spots around the property, which you’ll get to see and partake in if you opt for a tour during lunch.
Riding along in the off-road Kawasaki—“the Cadillac of ATVs,” explains Brown—you’ll learn that the water is so deep right at the edge of the land here, whales come super close to rub their barnacles off on the cliffs. Brown’s wife, who is a naturalist and the gardener here, says she can smell the whales’ breath when this happens. That organic garden was made with guests in mind, encouraging visitors to use, harvest, and cook with the ingredients growing there. They also have a mushroom farm, bee hives, and foraging tours led by the couple.
This isn’t a one-nighter kind of place, so book at least two and then go explore Fort Bragg a bit more. The old town is abundant with art; it seems like everywhere you look there’s painted stuff. In fact, there’s a whole mural walking tour pamphlet you can pick up to explore for yourself.
There are tons of shops, some super kitchy and touristy, and others really unique, like the letterpress store Little Cup (223 E. Redwood Ave.) and the intriguing Larry Spring Museum of Common Sense Physics (225 E. Redwood Ave.). You’ll also find Fabled (116 E. Laurel St.), which has sweet and quirky housewares, eclectic local goods, and curated items, from lemon-shaped candles to crafty potholders. You can also stop in at the Noyo Center for Marine Science (32439 N. Harbor Dr.), a citizen scientist-run operation with the world’s largest killer whale skeleton on display.
For food, try out the countless mini slider options at the new Huck’s Sliderhouse (139A E. Laurel St.), which you can also order from a kiosk at Tall Guy Brewing (362 N. Franklin St.), a true third space located in an old Sears building that former North Coast Brewing brewmaster Patrick Broderick opened in 2023. Taka’s Grill (250A N. Main St.) is a legit Japanese spot on the main strip—the owner even has a local uni farm nearby. Taka’s is the place to sample the local red variety in its true form, nigiri style, and to learn more about the invasive sea urchin situation. Next door is local favorite, Cowlick's Ice Cream (250 N. Main St. A), where you can try the seasonal candy cap mushroom flavor.
The Chandelier Drive Thru Tree in Leggett on Hwy 101(Courtesy of @chandelierdrivethrutree)
Fort Bragg is also the main stop for the Skunk Train (100 W. Laurel St.), where you can book a variety of fun adventures. They recently unveiled a luxury Presidential Car—a luxe ride with cocktail service—as well as unique railbikes, which are just what they sound like: bikes on the rails. On certain evenings, you can take the classic Pudding Creek Express route to the Glen Blair Bar, which feels like arriving at a secret forest hideout with live music, crafty drinks, fire pits, and even giant Jenga sets.
Next up, head north to Eureka, a route that takes you along the South Fork of the Eel River and through massive redwood groves. You’ll hit the town of Leggett and its famous Chandelier Drive Thru-Tree first (67502 Drive Thru Tree Rd.). Have lunch just minutes away at The Peg House (69501 Hwy 101), a roadhouse that offers more than meets the eye. You can smell the grass fed burger patties on the grill and you’ll find a few local beers (like Pliny the Elder), hot dogs, chicken sandwiches, fat local oysters (BBQ’d with garlic butter), and “world famous” wild blackberry sundaes. Live music on a big stage at the edge of the outdoor patio is a draw here, like the Willie Nelson-voiced charmer at noon on a Tuesday. There are picnic tables scattered among thriving garden boxes, and a rustic gift shop in front that hits that quintessential roadside stop requirement. The Peg House’s tagline “Never Don’t Stop” is absolutely true.
If you’re craving a dip, pull over to the left a few miles north on Highway 101 at the Bud Smithe Grove, where you’ll find a perfect Eel River swimming hole to jump into. Then get back on the road, opting for the scenic Avenue of the Giants, the 31-mile road that basically runs parallel to Highway 101, which has multiple opportunities to check out old growth trees and kitchy stops (like the free to enter Chimney Tree, burned out in 1914).
By the time you get to Eureka, it will feel very urban—and that’s fun, because it means lively restaurants, coffee shops, bars, and vintage shops. Check in at Inn at 2nd and C in the historic Eagle House (124 C. St.), an old Victorian building with a large, ornate ballroom in the center that’s bedazzled with stained glass, balconies, and tucked away rooms. It’s also a community space, with dance classes many nights of the week (the first class is free).
Phatsy Kline's at the historic Eagle House in Eureka(Courtesy of @phatsykilinesparlorlounge)
Housed in the same building on the corner is Gallagher's Irish Pub, a space bustling with locals and tourists alike who come for the delicious fish and chips (voted best in Humboldt County many times) and more. Also on the bottom floor is Phatsy Kline's, a swanky place for upscale cocktails, live music, and fun events. It was closed during our visit, so we headed to The Speakeasy (411 Opera Aly.) instead, just a short walk away to try local spirits like Little River Gin from Humboldt Craft Spirits, which makes a mean dirty martini.
For food, Humboldt Bay Provisions (205 G. St.) is the place for oysters, cheese plates, and glasses of wine. Go to Los Bagels for breakfast (403 2nd St.), a regional bagel shop chain that began in 1984. Locals will tell you all about the special Larrupin’s dill mustard, which you should eat on the slug-shaped everything bagel.
If you notice the air smelling like chocolate, you’re not crazy. Dick Taylor Chocolate’s headquarters is prominent here (333 1st St.), with a huge factory, cafe, and bakery, plus tours every Friday. Taste, shop, sip on a malted mocha, and nibble a perfect chocolate chunk cookie before you strike out for your next destination—Arcata is less than ten miles away and also worth a visit—or begin the journey back toward home. Hopefully the road trip bug will have bitten, and you’ll take your time.
