Food writers have been predicting that Filipino cuisine will be the next big thing seemingly forever. Wishful thinking? Perhaps. But Restaurant Naides, named in honor of the chef's mother, delivers on the promise that Filipino cuisine is worthy of fine dining.
Open just a few months, reservations are already booked out weeks in advance and Naides is rightfully getting Michelin star buzz. Creative and modern, yet clearly tied to traditional Filipino cuisine, it is one of the most unique and exciting restaurants in San Francisco or anywhere for that matter.
Chef and co-owner Patrick Gabon, who was born and raised in the Philippines, has worked in a variety of restaurants, and it shows. He is as comfortable with tweezers and foraged local ingredients as he is with infusing traditional fermenting techniques used in the Philippines. His resume includes stints at Alexander's Steakhouse, Sons & Daughters, and the Alpine Nordic-influenced Restaurant Milka in Slovenia.
Restaurant Naides chef and co-owner, Patrick Gabon(Courtesy of Restaurant Naides)
Gabon and his small team work in the open kitchen at the center of what was, until recently, Sons & Daughters. The interior of the intimate restaurant is mostly unchanged from its previous incarnation, with white marble tabletops, moody black-and-white photography, and flattering lighting that showcases the stunningly beautiful, artfully composed dishes on the tasting menu. Camera phones are out in full force at every table, as diners try to capture the magic of each dish. Mellow strains of Fleetwood Mac, Stephen Sanchez, and The Lumineers deliver a relaxed and peaceful vibe in sync with the cozy space and welcoming service.
Whether you are new to Filipino food or grew up eating it, the experience at Restaurant Naides is exceptional. Both the front-of-house team, led deftly by Gabon's partner and co-owner, Celine Wuu, and the chefs present 11 to 13 courses ($205/person), sharing the inspiration or story behind each. Currently, many of the dishes use wild ingredients that Gabon and Wuu foraged near Lake Tahoe and preserved in various ways. Their thoughtful approach extends to the choice of various ceramic pieces created by artisans and even the menu, which is printed on paper made locally and collaboratively, using pineapple leaves discarded by the kitchen.
The most surprising component of the dining experience may be the exquisite, frankly mind-blowing non-alcoholic pairings. Each housemade beverage is incredibly layered and complex, complementing the intensity and varied flavors in the dishes, starting with fermented golden kiwi juice with celery juice and galangal. Another particularly memorable drink is the smoked pomegranate juice infused with cascara and black pepper, which is not wine, but looks and drinks like it, bringing many of the same flavors.
Lumpia at Restaurant Naides(Courtesy of Restaurant Naides)
The meal starts with three dishes inspired by Filipino street food, such as a reimagined delicate lumpia, okoy fritter made with shredded vegetables and topped with prawn tartare, pickled wild roses, and fresh oxalis. The star, though, is the teetering pato, a tower of a fluffy rice cake topped with pork rillette, lardo, and fresh herbs. Each dish is balanced and made with finesse, shining a new light on classic Filipino flavors.
Gabon's refined take on traditional dishes kinilaw, bagoong, and sinigang made with abalone follow the street snacks. The adobo duck breast, marinated for a week, is a great example of an elevated rustic dish.
And then comes what may just set a new standard for bread service: an ethereal brioche-like pandesal served warm, with a trio of toppings including chicken sisig, chicken liver pâté, and atchara pickles. Combining them as you wish is one of the most pleasurable moments in a series of dishes that each surprise and delight in a different way.
Sinigang at Restaurant Naides(Courtesy of Restaurant Naides)
Desserts are just as exquisite as the savory courses, and include a tart made with polvorón shortbread, sweet potato, and a blanket of finely-grated, rare pili nuts from the Philippines, as well as a whimsical pairing of warm fermented rice milk and luscious rice ice cream.
How the restaurant will evolve over time is yet to be seen, but the opening menu is nothing short of a knockout.
// Restaurant Naides is open Wednesday and Thursday from 5:30pm to 8pm and Friday through Sunday from 5pm to 8pm; 708 Bush St. (Union Square), restaurantnaides.com
