If you haven’t heard of the wine grape carignane (carignan in its native France), you’re not alone. But a hundred years ago, it was one of the most widely planted reds in Northern California, primarily in Mendocino. The vine’s high-yielding nature made it popular among growers, which led to a massive overcropping and a low-quality output, used mainly for jug wine. Talk about a grape with a serious image problem.

But these days, the forgotten fruit is regaining status, thanks to a handful of Bay Area winemakers, who are coaxing stunning results from some of the state’s oldest vines. “Carignane was well on its way to extinction,” says Matt Licklider, co-owner of Lioco in Sonoma, who felt compelled to “keep it alive in California.” Sam and Jessica Bilbro of Sonoma’s Idlewild are also fans. “It’s a serious varietal with depth, especially with old vines, yet it’s also juicy and downright delicious,” Sam explains.

At its best, carignane can be bold and exciting. The wine combines tart cranberry and cherry flavors with dark chocolate and notes of sage, rosemary, and lavender. It has a naturally high acidity and gritty tannins—imagine the spiciness of syrah, the juiciness of grenache, and the gutsiness of mourvèdre all in one. It is a dream when paired with foods from classic cassoulet to grilled lamb chops to eggplant lasagna. (Carignane is one of the few wines that can stand up to tomato sauce.) What is old is fresh again.