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Refreshingly Unhip: SF's Old School Pastrami Sandwiches

Ike's blew up and made front page news. Pal's Takeaway has a fancy guest chef series. The Sentinel's got lines out the door. Everything's artisan this and organic that now. What happened to an old school, hand-cut hot pastrami sandwich so good it will give you the meat sweats? I criss-crossed the city in search of the kind that could make an NFL linebacker full and here's what I found:

MILLER'S EAST COAST DELI, pictured above. (Polk Gulch)
1725 Polk St., 415-563-3542

A place with plenty of East Coast pride and quite the cult following, their gigantic menu boasts that they serve the best pastrami on the West Coast. It was, in fact, the best of the bunch.

Meat to bread ratio: Perfect. The melt-in-your-mouth meat with a vivid pastrami taste was exquisitely tender with just the right amount of fat and a nice crunch to the bread.

Accoutrements: Swiss cheese ($0.99 extra), hot mustard, kaiser roll.

Toasted? Yes.

 

YELLOW SUBMARINE (Inner Sunset)

503 Irving St., 415-681-5652

A family-run shop for decades (the tiny matriarch put my sandwich together herself), this is a sleepy corner spot with customers who've stayed fiercely loyal for just as long. Their sandwiches are cheap and they make their own french-fried potato chips.

Meat to bread ratio: Good. The lean, fresh pastrami was served piping hot off the grill and peppery, but it didn't balance out with the perfectly toasted bread.

Accoutrements: Lettuce, tomato, onion, Swiss cheese, hot sauce, pickles, french roll.

Toasted? Yes.

 

ROXIE FOOD CENTER (Excelsior)

1901 San Jose Ave., 415-587-2345

Call this the original Pal's Takeaway or Rhea's Deli; it's a quality sandwich joint (renowned for their Dutch Crunch) tucked in a liquor store you'd never know was there if it weren't for the hype. Their sandwiches are huge.

Meat to bread ratio: Fair. The large bun was toothsome and felt like an intruder next to the gamey pastrami and ultra melty Swiss cheese. I was left wanting more pastrami and less bread.

Accoutrements: Swiss cheese, red onion, jalapeños, lettuce, tomato, mustard, mayo, french roll.

Toasted? No.

 

MOISHE'S PIPPIC (Hayes Valley)

425 Hayes St., 415-431-2440

This Chicago-style deli's owned by a Brazilian, but no matter. It's still ground zero for no-nonsense meat lovers, matzo ball soup and Cubs fans searching for hot dogs swimming in mustard and sport peppers. Just come with an empty stomach.

Meat to bread ratio: Intense. The mountain of hot pastrami was perfectly marbled, flecked with black pepper and surprisingly supple. The bun wasn't toasted, yet its softness balanced with the meat quite nicely.

Accoutrements: Swiss cheese, spicy mustard, french roll.

Toasted? No.

 

M & L MARKET (Castro)

691 14th St., 415-431-7044

The lines here are hefty, so patience and promptness are key. The mother-daughter-brother team who run M & L don't deal with attitudes; you order your sandwich their way or else. Their secret to mouth-watering pastrami? They steam it in its own juices in rice cookers all day for maximum meaty flavor.

Meat to bread ratio: Just right. The pastrami was quite fatty and tasted extra meaty because of the cooking method––almost like bacon. The bread soaked up the condiments and grease in a delightful way. Overall, a pretty sinful sandwich.

Accoutrements: Lettuce, tomato, sprouts, Swiss, mustard, Best Foods (!) mayo, french roll.

Toasted? No.

Where do you like to go for your deli sandwiches? Tell us in the comments!

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The Pastrami sandwich from Yellow Submarine is good. Just the right amount of pastrami and it's got lots of vegies.
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Thanks for such a great post and the review, I am totally impressed! Keep stuff like this coming.

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Pop's Sandwich Shop on Portola Drive near Tower Market has a sandwich called the Brooklyn Bridge. Rye bread, Pastrami, hot mustard, and kraut toasted up. The Pastrami is piled on high and it is the best.

Phew...both Tommy's Joynt and AK Meats have been namechecked, good. I was bummed not to see these on the list as well. Lefty O'Doul's is okay, but I think Tommy's is better for that style of sandwich.

I'll have to check out the non-pastrami offerings of the places on this list that add lettuce/tomato/mayo/etc. to their versions - while I love all sorts of sandwiches, I'm mostly traditional when it comes to pastrami (meat, cheese, mustard and onion, ideally on rye but certainly not plain white - pickle on the side please).

I have to second AK Meats in Outer Richmond (25th/Clement).

Pastrami for $7 and it's the best I've had.

Hi, this looks awesome !
Especially the M & L Market is my favourite one, however I will try the other ones as soon as I am back in town (september this year).
However how does these sandwiches affect bad breath as called in French mauvaise haleine ? Anyway be careful not eating too much animal proteins ;)
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Has anyone tried the "real" David's Old World Brand Pastrami? Stop into Golden Gate Butchers by the Bay at the Ferry Bldg. The pastrami is slow cured, hand rubbed, slow smoked and steamed to perfection. The cut is nose-off, cap on brisket. The sandwiches are absolutely delicious or you can buy the meat to go, sliced to your desired thickness.

I should amend my comment: David's pastrami sandwiches were acceptable, but I wouldn't call them "decent." "Decent" is reserved for acceptable delis in lower Manhattan and Brooklyn. And Tommy's Joynt is located at Van Ness and Geary, for the interested questioner. Great food, and even better cocktails.

David's Delicatessen used to have pretty decent pastrami sandwiches, as I remember. And I want to give some props to the guy who mentioned Tommy's Joynt - my favorite source for oxtails!

As for a decent pastrami sandwich, you simply can't get it in SF. You're probably best off taking a trip up to Sacto and eating at Sam's Hofbrau. Katz's (which someone mentioned earlier) or the Carnegie Deli are as close as it gets if you're willing to shell out for the plane ride. Saul's across the bay is decent, but not quite the same. I'm surprised no one has mentioned Canter's - perhaps due to a hatred among San Franciscans of all things LA. ;)

Out in the Richmond, AK Meats at 25th and Clement has an amazing pastrami sandwich (mustard, cheese and meat only) for $6 something. It's a butcher shop too, so all the meats are very fresh.

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Where's Tommy's Joynt?

Attention, people of San Francisco: TOMATO AND LETTUCE HAVE NO PLACE ON A PASTRAMI SANDWICH. The idea - as well as the pictures of those culinary atrocities - is NAUSEATING. And mayo? Really?? And I'm a goy!

Wow those food taste great! My friend says they use organic jojoba oil to cook them, that's why they taste so unique. Will try using it soon ;)

Liquor stores do not fail to make a good sandwich!! I'm tired of the hype over Ike's when you could get a sandwich for just as good and a few bucks cheaper elsewhere!

I prefer King Foot on Divisadero and Haight.

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what......

nobody checked lefty o'doul's ?
with katz's as my reference, it's the only place that reminds of what i want...hot pastrami on rye (w/ mustard)

i may check a couple of these other places, but i'm not going to pay 14 bucks for a sandwich

Wayne

I have tried to bring myself to go into "Squat and Gobble" as long as they've been in business. Can't. I am not one of those people who relates things to scatology or toilet-training but - -what were they thinking? The name immediately makes me think of a dog squatting on grass to poop...and having the word "gobble" mixed with that image? either that, or the sound of turkeys running around. Either way -- WHAT were they thinking? I guess it doesn't bother other people or they wouldn't still be in business but...beats me why it doesn't bother other people.

This is GREAT! Now, how about finding one in the Richmond district?

MORTY'S DELI in the Tenderloin. Sinfully juicy!!!

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Pastrami sandwiches are a staple in New York City and have a rich NY history dating back to the people of Eastern Europe and Russia who settled lower Manhattan.Eat the best sandwich in New York City at one of these fine delis listed below. New York City Pastrami sandwiches are traditionally served hot on rye with mustard. Some claim this is the only way to eat a pastrami sandwich. Other versions of pastrami sandwiches include the Reuben sandwich, combination sandwiches adding pastrami with another meat, and even pastrami burgers.

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The old school pastrami with swiss on a kaiser or onion role was lost at the end of the twentieth century with the closure of Solomon's Deli on the corner of Geary and Mason. Anyone remember their matzo ball soup? They brought New York to the City.

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I can imagine that there might be people who like these sandwiches, but there is nothing 'old school' about them. Cheese, lettuce, mayo, kaiser rolls, french bread have nothing to do with an old school pastrami sandwich. I would love to find a place for an old school sandwich on rye served with proper tangy mustard and half and full sours on the table.

i know it's not technically in the city limits, but little lucca's in south city will forever reign supreme.

My favorite is King Foot on Divisadero and Haight.

Aukie's Deli Meats has the real deal if you are into NYC style pastrami. Small batch hand-made Pastrami available at special events and private catering affairs. Aukie's Pastrami is the best! Check out www.aukies.com if you want to grab some.. it is hard to get.

real pastrami is just meat and bread- no fixins!

I'm from the UK and have just discovered Pastrami - it is not big here but I'm a real foodie! Have really enjoyed pics and has given me some really good ideas to try out - love the sound of pastrami with melted Swiss cheese, thanks.

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The best pastrami sandwich in town? No question, no debate. Wise Sons Deli (a pop-up on Saturdays at Heart Wine Bar). You will dream about it the other six days of the week.

I don't think the writer is using "toothsome" correctly in that context. http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/toothsome

Pastrami @ subcenter in West Portal

Ratio: perfect
Toasted: YES!
Includes: shredded lettuce, tomato, a few onions, choice of cheese (provolone is the best), and secret sauce

Has been my favorite since I was 8 years old. Tastes just like it used to, though the price has definitely gone up.

It's so weird, I became hungry all of a sudden.

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Max's cannot be matched.

what about Max's ? authentic and perfectly made to order.

I'm surprised you didn't have Tommy's Joynt on this list. While not the classic "deli" style, they hand carve a sandwich for you that was made on the premises and is amazing. No fancy sprouts or nothin' just great pastrami in big chunks, with some au jus and some mustard to dip your sandwich in to if you want.

That said, great list. Keep up the good work. Miller's is AMAZING and Yellow Sub is my go-to place for that and for their cheese steak and the italian combo. nice people too!

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