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Tongue Sticks Out On Menus Across SF

Ruffled lamb's tongue with pickled baby vegetables, salsa verde, bottarga of egg and celery heart leaves at Acquerello.

Long a staple of izakayas and taquerias in San Francisco, tongue meat has started to break ethnic barriers, slipping its way onto California-influenced menus of every stripe. Chefs adore its flavor and its texture. Diners fall into one or two camps: "Why not?" or just "Why?"  Love it or hate it, menu sightings of animal tongue are becoming almost common at popular restaurants around town. Over the course of interviewing several chefs about it, descriptors like "melt in your mouth," "unctuous" and "delicate" were each dropped on several occasions.  Naysayers, are you ready to be convinced? Take a look at what chefs are doing with it around town these days. Maybe it'll get you to watch your mouth.   

Hog & Rocks chef and owner Scott Youkilis puts braised, diced corned beef tongue in the onion and pepper stuffing for his potato skins. "People are excited to try an alternative potato skin topping," he says. "It's one of our most popular dishes."

SoMa's locavore-approved Radius restaurant likes to corn its beef tongue prior to serving. It's mounted on rye bread toast points with traditional pastrami sandwich accoutrement like horseradish creme fraiche, pickled cabbage and whole grain mustard.  On busy nights they'll run through about ten tongue dishes in the course of the evening. "It's hardly a tough sell," says executive chef Chris Geremia

The Dogpatch's Kitchenette features slow cooked beef tongue pastrami on a sandwich made with rye bread and housemade wine mustard. Chef Douglas Monsalud says tongue has limited appeal for their regulars, so it's not exactly a menu staple. "When someone bites into a well prepared tongue dish, though, they usually instantly like it," he says. "In the end, however, if we run a tongue sandwich side by side with a fried chicken sandwich there's no competition." 

A16 uses beef tongue in ragu, terrine and a whole lot more. Chef David Taylor says the key to selling it is pairing the meat with appealing ingredients like their housemade Meyer lemon salsa verde. "When we have this on the menu it sells out quickly," says Taylor. 

At Local: Mission Eatery, chef Jacob Des Voignes makes corned beef tongue with cabbage slaw and pickles for lunch, pickled tongue with chicories and gribiche for dinner. "It's not as popular as the halibut," he says. "But it holds its own."

Nob Hill's upper crust have been digging into Acquerello Chef de Cuisine Mark Pensa's grilled lamb tongue with celery, salsa verde and Gaeta olive oil for about a year now. "It's what I call a 'sleeper,'" says executive chef-owner Suzette Gresham. "Something diners have a preconceived idea about it, but it delivers a fabulous, deliciously different-than-they-expected experience." Suzette things the meat's lack of another name option is its biggest menu stumbling block: "Lots of people love sweetbreads," she says. "Would they order it if 'thymus gland' was written on the menu? Doubt it. 

 

Anyone have an idea for what tongue could be called to make it sound more appealing, a la sweetbreads? Leave it in the comments. Or if you want to share your favorite tongue dish, that's fine too. 

I first had tongue (tinned) as a child and was put off with the salty taste and texture. However, the recipes here sound positively mouth-watering!! Yes I do love sweatbreads too, fried. Great article, thanks for sharing.

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Now, finally Americans are getting more sophisticated like the rest of the world population (us) who grew up with delicious dishes of beef tongue, pork feet, beef tail, tripe, chicken gizzard. Funny how beef tail used to be thrown away or .10ct/lb up in Chicago slaughterhouses because Americans did not know what to do with it, but lately...sigh....they slapped a price on it...guess culture is finally catching up with the New World.

The only tongue that goes in my mouth is my spouses.

Tongue is being served more in high end restaurants because it's a relatively inexpensive cut of meat. Chefs can put fancy sauces on it, call it a delicacy and charge high prices. Big profit for them.

Oh no tongue is now trendy to eat in San Francisco? My dad was czech and tongue is on all the plates of Eastern Europeans (Polish, Czech). Why is it that only something becomes 'trendy' is when San Francisco uppity restaurants put it on their menus. Next trend will be pigs feet.

My mother cooked tongue when I was growing up, either pickled or in tomato sauce. I've always considered it a delicacy. Most people seem to be turned off by the idea of what it is, without ever even trying it. Their loss; it's such a delicate cut of meat.

My parents took me to a Spanish restaurant often as a child in Manila and one of my favorite dishes was lengua or beef tongue; I forget the precise recipe, but it was delicious. One time I cooked it for a fancy dinner project for school. Dressing a cow's tongue for the table is not for the faint of heart.