Eat + Drink
My brother was visiting from Boston last weekend and so I did what I often do—took him to a good cross-section of places the likes of which he doesn't have access to back East. Historically that roster of restaurants has included La Taqueria (because, I don't care what they say, Anna's Taqueria can't hold a candle), Chez Panisse and something in the Ferry Building, often Hog Island Oyster Co. It's always fun to watch someone experience a place you love for the first time, especially if, like my brother, they're good eaters. This time around I brought him to Beretta and as we poured over the cocktail list the divide between Boston and San Francisco widened.
A box from Recchiuti Confections landed on my desk this morning. You know when it's Recchiuti—who I'd deem one of the best chocolatiers in the country—it's going to be something exciting, something refined, something special. But before I even opened the box, I did a little envisioning: Please don't be truffles! Please don't be some fancy chocolate Easter egg!
The other day I was talking to a restaurant owner. He was complaining about the no-show—the person that ditches a reservation without bothering to cancel. I’d like to think that this is just a matter of ignorance, more than downright rude behavior. Diners just assume the restaurant will give your table away to someone else—no big deal, right?
Here’s are what a couple industry insiders have to say:
This is a picture of Martine Saunier, San Francisco's premier wine maven. Last week she held her annual portfolio tasting at the Presidio's Golden Gate Club. In a time when restaurants aren't buying much wine, the shoulder-to-shoulder crowd of wine professionals in attendance was testament to the quality of her lineup of wines and her rock star status. Martine, who just turned 75 a few months ago, just keeps going and, if anything, getting better. (You think Mick Jagger has energy, just try keeping up with Martine.)
Welcome to our partnership with Eater. For this weekly Friday column, Eater editor Paolo Lucchesi gives his opinionated report on all the restaurant news that's fit to print. Among today's topics: the Oscars of the restaurant world, the rise of Oakland, a romantic sunset with George Morrone, and the San Francisco whereabouts of one Mr. Anthony Bourdain.
If anyone has the inside sccop when it comes to the Ferry Plaza Farmers market it's Lulu Meyer, associate director of market operations at CUESA. You'll see her at the market, rain or shine. Every week, she'll be giving us her short list for the market—just in time for Saturday shopping. Go to cuesa.org for more information about farmers, what's in season and market goings-on.
I've always meant to go to Conduit more than I've managed to, which is hardly at all. Might be something about the name: It's always sounded more like a professionally named corporate finance/tech/insurance kind of business (Intuit, Agilent, etc) than a place I'd go to tickle my gastronomic senses. Nevertheless, the other night I made it in for a thorough and overdue visit and found it to live up to all the hype.
Steve Hoffman, the bar manager of Ame Restaurant in the St. Regis Hotel, created this elegant take on the daiquiri. (Velvet Falernum is an allspice liqueur available at Cask Spirits, cask
store.com) Wet the rim of a chilled martini glass with lime juice and dip it in lime zest and sugar.
2 ounces Batiste Rhum
1 ounce fresh lime juice
3/4 ounce Velvet Falernum
Combine everything in a shaker. Shake vigorously and strain into the glass.
1. Vegetative State
This Sunday, March 29, the Underground Food Academy is offering a class with chef Leif Hedendal (formerly of Greens): “Heart of Darkness: Odd Vegetables and their Preparation.” From tonka beans to ancho cress, Hedendal will demystify and prepare these unusual ingredients. The class will culminate with a gourmet vegetarian feast featuring local wines. The cost of meal and class is $70; to reserve your seat click here.
2. Something to Squeal About