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Eat + Drink

Domo Arigato


Welcome inside Hayes Valley's newest restaurant.
photo courtesy of Domo

What Wine Goes with Indian Food?

This question came up while I was lucky enough to be having dinner with Rajat Parr at his house. Rajat is the wine director for the metastasizing Michael Mina Group, which seems to have a new restaurant going up somewhere in the world about every 15 seconds. Known as a miraculous blind taster and to have a deeply knowledgeable mind about wine, Rajat--and this is unknown to many--is also a world-class chef who graduated from the CIA in Hyde Park before deciding to devote his life to pairing food with wine instead of cooking it.

The Eat + Drink List: This week's top 7


Bar Bambino's stellar cheese selection.

1. Ciao, Bambino!

Joey Altman's Matzo Ball Soup

Just in time for Passover (which begins this Saturday at sundown), we bring you a simple and trustworthy recipe for matzo ball soup from SF's own Joey Altman, from his new cookbook Without Reservations: How to Make Bold, Creative, Flavorful Food at Home (Wiley).

Note: Schmaltz is rendered chicken fat. You can get it from some kosher grocers, from Boulettes Larder in the Ferry Building, or you can render it yourself by simply making homemade chicken soup and scooping the solid fat off the top after refrigerating it. The broth and shredded chicken would both come in handy for this recipe too. But if it's all too much trouble, Altman recommends vegetable oil as a substitute.

DeLoach Vineyards: Boisset Rising

Last week, I had the opportunity to have lunch with the irrepressible Jean-Charles Boisset, the French owner of many wine companies worldwide. In California, he owns Deloach Vineyards, the venerable Russian River produce; we met at the winery. J-C is doing many interesting things, including changing the entire style of Deloach's Pinots and Chardonnays to a style much more subtle and French than most of what you'll find in California. It's a bold move, but the wines--given their price and their market penetration in supermarkets--have the potential to really help turn the tide for more tasteful and elegant California wines (especially in the Chardonnay department). Bravo.

Crepe O Chocolate: Food for Shop

Shopping at Barneys always leaves me full of want, yet unfulfilled. There are so many beautiful things there. So many beautiful things that I can’t afford. (This is not to say that I don’t go back often, like some sort of shopping masochist.)

Antique Ice Crusher: My New Favorite Toy



If you see something like this, buy it. My friend Lisa found this in some of her old stuff and knew that it was some sort of bar or culinary implement, but she didn't know exactly what it was. I instantly recognized it as an old-fashioned ice crusher and gladly took it in. The thing works wonderfully, in seconds pulverizing dozens of hard cubes into a finely crushed texture. I've seen them in antique stores all over, for cheap.

Mais Oui: The French Invasion

An article that ran yesterday in the New York Times about the resurgence of French food in New York City struck a chord with me. For all of San Francisco’s Italianate leanings, the same seems to be true here—all of a sudden, the “French culinary mafia” seems once again to be picking up speed. The other night I ate at Chez Papa Resto, where my old friend David Bazirgan is the chef. David is supremely talented, and I’ll happily patronize any restaurant where he’s cooking. The food–lovely renditions of French classics given the Baz touch—seems anything but tired.
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