Cold Comfort: Dogpatch Ice Creamery Mr. and Mrs. Miscellaneous
The problem with opening an ice cream parlor is that you’re always in competition—with neighboring scoop shops, of course, but also with an even fiercer adversary: nostalgia. Ice cream inspires deep loyalty, and whether you’re a Häagen-Dazs vanilla fan or a Bi-Rite salted caramel booster, chances are good you have strong feelings about your choice.
When another shop steps into the fray, as Dogpatch newcomer Mr. and Mrs. Miscellaneous recently did, the waters are further muddied.
Ian Flores and Annabelle Topacio have pastry chef pedigree—they’ve both worked for Wolfgang Puck at Spago in Southern California and Maui and CUT in Beverly Hills. Their organic ice cream—along with the cookies, caramels, toppings, cones and brittles—is all made in their spare, light-filled 22nd Street shop, which, with its apothecary jars and letterpress business cards decorated with images of vintage ice cream bombes, is very San Francisco.
But lest you think Mr. and Mrs. is some ultra-precious creamery, rest assured that the flavors are not. Though there is some innovation at work here, purists will be happy to find chocolate chip and strawberry alongside avant-garde options like “ballpark” (Anchor Steam porter ice cream with chocolate-covered pretzels and peanuts) and candied violet. The ice cream is sweet and rich with a smooth texture; the sorbets are the purest distillation of fruit, be it grapefruit or apricot; and the cones are the best I’ve ever had. In keeping with soda foundation tradition, you can get floats (root beer, orange cream or blackberry cream). And in keeping with national ice cream tradition, the classic sundaes—with all-American toppings that include homemade butterscotch, hot fudge or pineapple sauce—are as good (better, really) than any you had as a kid.
The big decision here: one scoop or two: 699 22nd St., 415-970-0750
Photography by: Aubrie Pick