(Photography by Sarah Chorey)
First Taste: Cow Marlowe brings class and humor to SF's party 'hood
21 November 2018
One of our favorite restaurants has a new location, just in time for the holidays.
Seekers of the best burgers in San Francisco are already regulars at Marlowe, the classy-slash-approachable SoMa mainstay from restaurateur-about-town Anna Weinberg and chef Jennifer Puccio. Now, the team is answering our secret prayers with a more weekend-friendly sophomore outpost in Cow Hollow. Cheekily dubbed Cow Marlowe, the restaurant takes over the old location of Eastside West, in a part of town typically packed with rowdy 20-somethings, and feels poised to change the identity of the neighborhood.
With yet another powerfully elegant design from Ken Fulk's team, the interior here, by senior designer Tiffany Krame, plays on contrasts: dark and light, bold and soft, and always with a bit of humor. You'll find plush leather booths that invite you to sink in and martini up; geometric white tiled walls; countertops made of sodalite, a rare blue stone; and some choice bovine art. All in all, it's a place we can easily relax into for a leisurely night of wining and dining.
Puccio and pastry chef Emily Luchetti have devised a slight variation on the restaurant's well-loved menu, with a mashup of the old favorites (deviled eggs, Brussels sprout chips, and of course that famous burger) alongside a smattering of new bites that feel winter-ready—think poutine with braised beef short ribs, cracklings, aioli, and parmesan cheese; and grilled furikake green beans with smoked egg yolk, caviar, and truffle aioli. Rich? Hell yes.
Perhaps the biggest change at Marlowe 2.0 is the super-focus on cocktails. Mike Anders, of both Marianne's and Leo's Oyster Bar, has pulled out all his tricks for three sections of drinks: Marlowe classics, Cow Marlowe house cocktails, and Marina Girls & Boys, featuring the brilliantly named Lululemon Drop and a Brad & Chad.
We think this neighborhood could definitely go for a drink or two.
(Sarah Chorey)
A Marlowe classic: the warm deviled egg topped with aged provolone, a slice of pickled jalapeño, and bacon.
▲(Sarah Chorey)
The Brussels sprouts chips, perfectly fried and seasoned with lemon and sea salt, are the stuff of legend.
▲(Sarah Chorey)
For something healthy yet hearty, try the warm Brussels sprout Caesar salad with chicories, anchovies, caviar, and a crispy hen egg.
▲(Courtesy of Cow Marlowe)
A charred octopus and grilled squid salad.
▲(Sarah Chorey)
One of our favorite dishes, the petrale sole is stuffed with diver scallops, bay shrimp, celery root, and spinach, seasoned with smoked paprika and topped with crisp sunchoke chips.
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(Courtesy of Cow Marlowe)
Topped with melted cheddar, caramelized onions, crispy bacon, and horseradish aïoli, the Marlowe burger never lets us down.
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Order up the Brad & Chad (Avion Reposado Tequila, gin, and Green Chartreuse).
▲(Sarah Chorey)
The name makes us chuckle, but the Lululemon Drop (Tito's Vodka, Acqua di Cedro, lemon, and thyme) doesn't mess around.
▲// Cow Marlowe, 3154 Fillmore St. (Cow Hollow), marlowesf.com
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