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The Eater Wrap: Bar Crudo, Hello, Jeanty at Jack's, Goodbye

'Twas quite the week over at Eater SF, and since it's already Friday, here's editor Paolo Lucchesi to provide your weekly recap of all the restaurant news from the last seven days.

Discover Vino Siciliano with the Tablehopper

Our friend the Tablehopper, AKA Marcia Gagliardi, asked me to pass along this notice of her upcoming wine tasting and class. The focus is the wines of Sicily, which are well worth knowing about. Sicily is a vast land will all kinds of different terroirs, from the hot and dry to the cool, lava-dominated soils of the still-active Mt Etna. As in California, all kinds of wines come from Sicily, from the most humdrum of bulk wines to some the most unique and intriguing wines in the world.

Market Watch: Nopales, Dandelions and Finally—Peaches!

Tory Farms returned to the market last Saturday with baskets of their lovely May Crest peaches. The May Crest variety is one of the first to appear for the season and is remarkably sweet and flavorful. Rebecca and Tory Torosian of Tory Farms grow a wide variety of peaches, nectarines, and pluots throughout the season. This week, Rebecca tells me they’ll also have Rose Diamond nectarines and possibly a few of their wonderful apricots.

RN74 Has a World-Class Cellar and Somms in Jeans, But Don't Call It a Wine Bar

Who would have thought that San Francisco needed another wine bar? I guess we did, given the kind of slamming business RN74—named after the road that travels up and down the Cote D'Or, the heart of the Burgundy wine region—has been doing since it opened a few weeks back. (A couple of disclaimers: My wife, Christie Dufault, is one of the sommeliers there, and I am good friends with RN74's visionary Rajat Parr, one of the world's foremost Burgundy experts. So take what I say as you will. I also attended a comped "media dinner," but I've also been there and paid straight up for food and drink.) Nevertheless, my enthusiasm is genuine.

The Anonymous Restaurant Critic: Is It Even Possible Any More?

A couple of weeks ago, the Chicago-based Menu Pages blog posted an article entitled “Why Does Everyone Hate John Mariani?” It all started when Esquire critic—and author of the influential “Best New Restaurants” list—was in Chicago doing his rounds, which provoked some irate tweets from the likes of the chef de cuisine of Alinea about Mariani’s unethical ways—predominately about his decided lack of anonymity. Let’s just say the word “douchebaggery” was slung. (Why do bloggers and tweeters insist on using variations on this word?)

Schmidt's Is Sausage King

Those who know me (or who follow our 7x7bitsbites Twitter feed) know that I have been quietly obsessing over Schmidt's for quite a while now. Ever since first hearing that the space on 20th and Folsom, formerly occupied by El Farolito, was being taken over by the Walzwerk owners and that sausage, German snacks and beer were going to be in full effect only a block from my house, I have biding my time.

Life On the Line: Sometimes Just a Single Order Breaks a Cook Down

Richie Nakano, a line cook at Nopa, chronicles his experience on his blog, linecook415. For the next six weeks, his guest blog will give us a snapshot of life in the kitchen.

Sunday.
12:51am. 
398 covers.

The job of a line cook can be brutal, but the best nights are when you get into a groove. Thing is, you never know what’s going to derail you.

Who Knew? Michael Engelmann of Gary Danko Is Crowned Best Somm in America

Last month, Restaurant Gary Danko sommelier Michael Engelmann shocked the world (or at least the US sommelier community) by coming out of nowhere to win the coveted title Best Sommelier in America, a title conferred only once every two years. While Gary Danko and SF are not exactly "nowhere," it's true that Engelmann, who is not the restaurant's wine director, keeps a somewhat low profile. He's soft spoken, studious, mannered and not prone to behavior that causes him to really stand out of a crowd.

Beer Dinners: Ame Getting Into the Act

Not long ago, we wrote about Monk's Kettle's (my, that's awkward sounding) new program of monthly beer-pairing dinners. Which, by the way, is a great idea, as beer is arguably just-as, if not more, food-friendly than wine.

So, it's nice to see other restaurants getting into the act. In this case on June 17th it's Ame, lending executive chef Greg Dunmore's and kitchen guru Hiro Sone's talents to a menu paired with the (in)famously extreme ales of Delaware's Dogfish Head brewery (which even earned a profile in the New Yorker not long ago).

Cocktail Week Post Mortem: Bartenders Protest N.O.'s Tales of the Cocktail

Well, the third annual San Francisco Cocktail Week came to an end on Monday with a closing bash at Jardinere. I, unfortunately, was not there, as I was instead actually bartending at Cantina. I pulled three shifts during the week, so my attendance at events was a bit more limited than I would have wished. Nevertheless, I got some sense of what was going on—what worked and what didn't.

I'm happy to say that overall I think the event was a rousing success. Parties were fun. Classes were largely well-attended and enthusiastic. Interesting people came in from out of town to see what was going on. The mood was great. Congratulations to the local bartenders and bar owners who planned the thing.

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