Just a few hours south of the Bay, SLO CAL—San Luis Obispo County—sits like a present waiting to be unwrapped.
The region is deliciously varied, with rolling hills and vineyards inland and a fog-kissed coastline that stretches for miles. And since you can drive from one to the other in about 15 minutes, you don’t have to decide between a seaside escape and a Wine Country one.
On top of that, add what’s arguably the state’s most iconic hotel (Madonna Inn), what’s inarguably its most lavish historic residence (Hearst Castle), an immersive art utopia (Sensorio), and lots of chances for adventuring and wildlife viewing, and you’ve got the kind of road trip other regions of California can only dream of.
We break down the best spots to sleep, eat, and play in our itinerary for a long weekend in SLO CAL.
Thursday: Check In and Soak Up the Madonna Inn
(Shoshi Parks)
If there’s one hotel that should be on the bucket list of every West Coaster, this is it. The Madonna Inn (100 Madonna Rd.) opened in San Luis Obispo in the late 1950s with a unique combination of alpine flair, bubblegum pink decor, Western accents, and distinctly themed rooms. There are now 110 of them, many incorporating giant boulders from the nearby hills in their architecture, with names like “Bridal Falls” (an Oscar the Grouch-colored suite with a Yosemite-inspired stained glass window and a stone waterfall shower) and the “Caveman Room” (a Flintstones-esque flurry of animal print).
The kitsch spills out into the hotel’s bars, dining areas, and pool deck too. The main attraction is the ridiculously over-the-top, Barbie-fied steakhouse, serving solid oak-pit barbecued steak, seafood, and chicken. The Silver Bar Cocktail & Lounge next door is decked out with intricate, hand-carved wood accents, stained glass, tufted wingback chairs, pinker-than-pink barstools, and a huge dance floor for swinging to the sounds of live music on the weekends. After a long drive south, there’s no better place to spend your first evening in SLO—and its central location makes it a good weekend home base.
Friday Morning: Hike Pismo Preserve + Explore Tide Pools
(Shoshi Parks)
Before heading out for the day, grab breakfast at another Madonna must—the German-meets-Old-West Copper Cafe & Bakery—before hitting the road. Their greasy spoon plates (think corned beef hash with poached eggs and dollar pancakes) are second only to their baked goods, which include elaborate cakes in flavors like cherry black forest and toffee crunch.
Spend the morning breathing in the ocean air on a hike at Pismo Preserve (80 Mattie Rd.) in the towering hills above Pismo Beach, about a 15-minute drive from the hotel. Golden in summer, lush green in winter, the 880-acre park is all oak woodlands and coastal ridgelines with panoramic views of the coast that emerge as the morning fog burns off. The almost four-mile Spring to Spring Trail is doable in just a couple of hours, making a relatively leisurely loop through the landscape.
Afterwards, drive a few minutes over to the shore for a stop at the Spyglass Beach Tide Pools (182 Seacliff Dr., Pismo Beach), which are teeming with spiky urchins and scuttling crabs. Park for free along the road opposite Spyglass Park, then it’s a short walk and a descent down a long staircase to the beach. You’ll find the tide pools right in front of you to your southwest.Friday Afternoon/Evening: Wine Tasting, a Motorcycle Sidecar Vineyard Tour + Dinner in Downtown SLO
(Shoshi Parks)
With your appetite restored, it’s on to Edna Valley, one of San Luis Obispo County’s prime wine-growing regions, where cool air and mild temperatures provide the ideal climate for chardonnay and pinot noir. Take a seat on the garden patio at Old Edna (1653 Maxwellton St., SLO)—a charming historic townsite whose original, century-plus-old general store now houses Sextant Wines’ tasting room and the Gourmet Deli (and whose extant cottages and farmhouse are available for overnight stays)—for simple paninis, ooey-gooey flatbreads, charcuterie and cheese, and a can’t-miss sugar bomb of a dessert they call the Sextant Bar (made with coconut, chocolate chips, butterscotch, graham cracker, and pecan). Order a glass or do a full tasting with wines like crisp estate grenache rosé and fruity, spicy cabernet sauvignon.
A short drive down Orcutt Road lands you at Wolff Vineyards (6328 Orcutt Rd., SLO), where you can cruise in style in an adorable motorcycle sidecar through the ripening vines with Third Wheel Tours. Along the way, the driver will point out the innovative techniques for ecological sustainability developed by its scientist founder and pioneered on the family-owned estate. After the tour, post up in the shady garden to taste award-winning wines with a lovely view of the rolling hills.
Dinner + Drinks in Downtown San Luis Obispo
Head to the delightful Central Coast town of San Luis Obispo (SLO) for dinner on the terrace at Mistura (570 Higuera St.), where chef Nicola Allegretta combines the influences of Peruvian culinary heritage with Italian, Spanish, Japanese, and Chinese flavors; order up authentic and inventive versions of empanadas and ceviche, marinated lamb shanks, and paiche (an Amazonian white fish). Another fun but slightly more familiar option is Novo (726 Higuera St.), where you'll find a globally inspired menu—spring rolls, samosas, Thai curry, lavender lamb chops—served on one of the best outdoor patios in town. A massive oak tree and twinkle lights bring a romantic touch to the creekside tables.
Cap the evening with a cocktail at Sidecar (1040 Broad St.), a brothers-run cocktail bar that's serious about giving you exactly what you want. The menu rotates quarterly-ish, but the bartenders are eager for special requests, whether you fancy an herbaceous tipple or a drink reminiscent of the Madonna Inn.
Saturday Morning: Hearst Castle + Elephant Seals
(Shoshi Parks)
You’ll do a bit of driving today, first to one of California’s most iconic landmarks, then to the quaint town of Paso Robles just north of San Luis Obispo. As you head southwest in the morning, make a stop at the teeny town of Harmony—population 18. The vibrant historic village’s Morii Coffee opens at 8am, with notable roasts, delicious sweet-and-savory pastries, and a courtyard anchored by sculptured cows.
Even if you’ve been to Hearst Castle (750 Hearst Castle Rd., San Simeon) before, it’s worth a second look. This truly spectacular estate built by William Randolph Hearst and architect Julia Morgan rivals the stately manors of the Old World—in large part because it’s filled with centuries-old art and architecture bought directly from the source. The gateway tour is the Grand Rooms, which walks you through the main floor where guests like Charlie Chaplin once cavorted, both the indoor and outdoor pools, and the Art Deco movie theater. If you’re a returning visitor, try the Upstairs Suites tour, which winds through opulent bedrooms and a stunning library.
Stop for lunch at Sebastian’s General Store (442 SLO San Simeon Rd.), which is virtually across the highway from the Hearst Castle Visitor Center. The oldest continuously operated shop in SLO CAL, a recent renovation retooled the menu to focus on chubby deli sandwiches and salads with seasonal produce and proteins like slow-roasted pulled pork and achiote-marinated tri-tip. They’ve got drinks—alcoholic and non-alcoholic—here too, or pop across the parking lot with your food to the Hearst Ranch Winery, the only oceanfront tasting room in the county.
Before returning inland, swing by the Elephant Seal Vista Point a few miles up the coast, where the massive pinnipeds snore, spar, molt, and teach their young’uns to swim.
Saturday Evening: Paso Robles
(Courtesy of @saranellarestaurant)
Opened earlier this year, modern Spanish tapas and cocktail bar S’Aranella reimagines the rich traditions of the Old World with a Central Coast twist. The latest restaurant from the chef behind Michelin-recommended Les Petites Canailles (1215 Spring St., Paso Robles), S’Aranella is more approachable and laid-back than its sibling with original cocktails, genuinely lovely staff, and outstanding small plates like croquetas de champiñones made with mighty cap mushrooms and saffron garlic aioli; carxofa made with crispy artichokes, truffle sherry vinaigrette, confit egg yolks, and manchego cheese; and sleeper hit ajo blanco, chilled garlic and almond soup with blue crab. Don’t miss the paella del mar with prawns, mussels, and octopus, or the light and creamy burnt Basque cheesecake.
Sensorio After Dark + Speakeasy Cocktails
With a description like “unique multi-sensory experience,” it would be easy to write Sensorio (4380 CA-46, Paso Robles) off as just another overpriced immersive art installation. But that, my friends, would be a mistake. This 15-acre landscape of light and sound is nothing short of magical. From its original exhibition, an endless field of flowers that glows ever more deeply in the setting sun—to new installations like the Fiber Optic Symphonic Orchestra—columns of light synchronized to a musical score—and Dimensions—a wonderland of rotating metal sculptures, music, and color—Sensorio is well worth the cost.
With food-and-drinks pop-ups and patios overlooking several of the expansive works, Sensorio’s a full-service evening in one go. But if you’re still up for a tipple afterwards, check out Eleven Twenty-Two (1122 Pine St.) back in downtown Paso (you’ll essentially pass right by on the way to the hotel anyway). The candlelit, 1930s-inspired cocktail lounge requires advance reservations.
Sunda Morning: Avila Beach Breakfast + Kayaking
(Courtesy of @avilabeachpaddlesports)
If you're not quite ready to make your way back up the coast, take a quick 10-mile drive to Avila Beach for breakfast and a final outdoor adventure.
Break your fast with stacked crab benedicts and fresh-baked cinnamon rolls at Fat Cats Cafe (3920 Avila Beach Dr.), then swing by Avila Beach Paddlesports (3915 Avila Beach Dr.) just down the street. Rent a kayak or SUP to get friendly with the bay’s sea lions and otters—you may not be butting heads with a humpback (which has been known to happen in the area), but you will have the freedom of paddling through the open water, beaching your kayak, and making your way to Avila's historic Point San Luis Lighthouse.
Need lunch before heading home? Grab a quick bite at Mersea's at Port San Luis (3985 Avila Beach Dr.), where fried seafood, fish tacos, and crab melts will fortify you for the journey.
